Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: [A. Petefish, D. Huntley]
Page Views: 2,750 total · 11/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Mar 28, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Jesse Zacher, Monomaniac, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Tyler KC, Jared LaVacque

You & This Route


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Description

At the Side Areas, area 2, is this nice route. Just left of the thin crack with a fixed pin, start up the finger crack corner. The crack keeps getting larger in size from thin hands to offwidth. The knee jam seems to work alright here, although painful. Thrutch your way up the wide crack, then continue through a squeeze chimney up to a ledge with a fixed anchor.

Submitted subsequently by Tony B: To find this route, pass the popular Lower wall on the Monument Trail with the route "Dihedral #1" and go to the next significant prow on the same side of the canyon. [This] huge prow has a large protruding buttress with a clean dihedral high on the wall (part of the aid route "Binge"), making it easy to identify. On the left side of this prow there is a left-facing dihedral that pops up above a small roof to a slot. The bottom of the climb is fun and mostly easy-going. There is a crux at [the] bulge/roof, [and] then some runout easy climbing to the anchors. A few cams would go in up high if you take a few larger ones that high on the route. All in all, it was fun, but the sandy top of the route detracts from the lower half. Still fun, still worth doing....

Protection

Standard rack with 2, #3 Camalots and a #4 Camalot. A 50m rope comes about 6 foot short of the ground, but you may downclimb the last bit.

Addendum: The anchor which needed replacing has been replaced. Thanks!

Photos