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Routes in Monument Canyon

Big Bertha T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big Foot T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Carter Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Circle, Square, and the Triangle S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Da Nada 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3-
Desert Solitaire T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c C1
Egypt Rock - The Revolution Will Not be Televised T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Elephant Head T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Euro Route T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Friends Can't Be Trusted S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Get A Life T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Higher Mind Dynamics S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
It Ain't Over Til It's Loose T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Left Dihedral aka Dihedral 1 aka First Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Luhr's Route aka Right Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monolith Spire - Dewar Dihedral T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mormon Tea T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Out of the Frying Pan Into the Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pharaoh Point - Chimney Wide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 R
Route 2 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Route 4 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Short Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown Tower - Northwest Face T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Wide Load aka Route 3 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wingate Warrior S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wizard I T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: [A. Petefish, D. Huntley]
Page Views: 2,275 total · 11/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Mar 28, 2001
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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At the Side Areas, area 2, is this nice route. Just left of the thin crack with a fixed pin, start up the finger crack corner. The crack keeps getting larger in size from thin hands to offwidth. The knee jam seems to work alright here, although painful. Thrutch your way up the wide crack, then continue through a squeeze chimney up to a ledge with a fixed anchor.

Submitted subsequently by Tony B: To find this route, pass the popular Lower wall on the Monument Trail with the route "Dihedral #1" and go to the next significant prow on the same side of the canyon. [This] huge prow has a large protruding buttress with a clean dihedral high on the wall (part of the aid route "Binge"), making it easy to identify. On the left side of this prow there is a left-facing dihedral that pops up above a small roof to a slot. The bottom of the climb is fun and mostly easy-going. There is a crux at [the] bulge/roof, [and] then some runout easy climbing to the anchors. A few cams would go in up high if you take a few larger ones that high on the route. All in all, it was fun, but the sandy top of the route detracts from the lower half. Still fun, still worth doing....


Standard rack with 2, #3 Camalots and a #4 Camalot. A 50m rope comes about 6 foot short of the ground, but you may downclimb the last bit.

Addendum: The anchor which needed replacing has been replaced. Thanks!


Ben Mottinger

Ben Mottinger    
I looked this up in Desert Rock III and it gets a 10a rating for the small bulge after the OW section. Forgot the name though...Doh. Jan 1, 2001
Matthew Seymour
1996 Dodge Van, USA
Matthew Seymour   1996 Dodge Van, USA
The name of this route is Route #3, per Bjornstad's guide. Wide Load is a more exciting name in my opinion. A few notes on this climb. First, the anchors on this route could use replacing, currently there is a old 1/4 inch spinner and an angle that is not fully driven. Secondly, watch your rope when you pull it on this one, there is a section of rope stuck in the back of the crack where someone had to cut it after getting it stuck. Lastly, there are two fixed cams on this route, one about 15 feet up, and one in the roof. Mar 3, 2007
Paul S
Fruita, CO
Paul S   Fruita, CO
The anchor has been replaced. If I remember right, there are 2 pins and a good bolt with chains up there now. Thanks to whoever replaced it! Nov 3, 2009
george wilkey
travelers rest sc
george wilkey   travelers rest sc
My son and I climbed this route the summer of 2012. I would definitely give the move past the bulge a 10a rating. The anchors were good, no more stuck cams on route. We both thought it was a route well worth doing. Jun 13, 2013
Cameron Turner
Cameron Turner   Eagle
Got the rope stuck pulling this one. Get a wide angle on the pull. Apr 29, 2015

More About Wide Load aka Route 3