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Routes in Monument Canyon

Big Bertha T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big Foot T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Carter Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Circle, Square, and the Triangle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Da Nada 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3-
Desert Solitaire T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c C1
Egypt Rock - The Revolution Will Not be Televised T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Elephant Head T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Euro Route T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Friends Can't Be Trusted S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Get A Life T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Higher Mind Dynamics S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
It Ain't Over Til It's Loose T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Left Dihedral aka Dihedral 1 aka First Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Luhr's Route aka Right Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monolith Spire - Dewar Dihedral T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mormon Tea T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Out of the Frying Pan Into the Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pharaoh Point - Chimney Wide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 R
Route 2 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Route 4 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Short Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown Tower - Northwest Face T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Wide Load aka Route 3 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wingate Warrior S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wizard I T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Willis, Jenter (June 1985)
Page Views: 1,227 total, 10/month
Shared By: DaveB on Mar 22, 2008
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

What appears to be a nice moderate warm-up will likely leave you disappointed. At the base, stay near right-leaning crack and climb on subpar rock to ledge. Eventually work left and up to left-facing dihedral with flaring crack and hand-sized pods. After protecting (PG-13), grunt your way by whatever means around bulge to gain easier ground and bushwhack to belay ledge with tree. (The sandy nature of the rock - footwork - makes getting around the awkward bulge much harder than expected.)

If you must climb this route, I recommend walking off. Near the top lip of the route, you will see numerous deep rope gauges and gullies in the soft rock just below the anchor tree. These ruts, plus the un-rap-friendly nature of the tree & retrieval angle, will cause your rope to become nightmarishly stuck!...which of course, leads to the requisite tantrums and swearing! ;-) Save yourself the hassle and just walk off.

Location

One of the first vertical crack/dihedrals along the trail. The route is easily seen on the right as one passes about 100 yards or so of the Lower Monument Canyon Slabs (see photo).

Bjornstad's Desert Rock III mentions a fixed piton near the beginnning, but we did not see it. (Perhaps other folks can add clarity in this regard....)

Protection

Small-medium cams. Walk off.

Photos

Rschap
Grand Junction, CO
Rschap   Grand Junction, CO
Good place to find Booty gear as a lot of people give up on this loose and not all that fun route. Dec 31, 2009
Alex Garhart
  5.8
Alex Garhart  
  5.8
Skip this one, much better stuff just down canyon. Yuck. Mar 22, 2008