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Routes in Monument Canyon

Big Bertha T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big Foot T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Carter Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Circle, Square, and the Triangle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Da Nada 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3-
Desert Solitaire T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c C1
Egypt Rock - The Revolution Will Not be Televised T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Elephant Head T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Euro Route T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Friends Can't Be Trusted S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Get A Life T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Higher Mind Dynamics S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
It Ain't Over Til It's Loose T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Left Dihedral aka Dihedral 1 aka First Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Luhr's Route aka Right Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monolith Spire - Dewar Dihedral T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mormon Tea T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Out of the Frying Pan Into the Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pharaoh Point - Chimney Wide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 R
Route 2 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Route 4 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Short Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown Tower - Northwest Face T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Wide Load aka Route 3 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wingate Warrior S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wizard I T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Aid, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: AC Robertson and Todd Warren, 1997?
Page Views: 988 total, 8/month
Shared By: Jesse Zacher on Jan 20, 2008
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Pitch 1: The crux is 30 feet off the ground where you have to face some blown out piton scars. Bad gear and a fall might end you up on the talus. This goes clean, do not bring a hammer, there is already enough rock damage. Once you high step the last pecker scar trend right with the giant flake and make a semi free move to gain a rotten crack that widens to #5/6. Be careful of the block below the anchors as it is detached.

Pitch 2: is C1-ish through a roof and up a flare to belay anchors.

Pitch 3: was short and solid to a natural anchor on the right side of a good ledge. Probably C1+ on the FA but I thought it would go free at 10ish. Anybody know?

Pitch 4: was no fun with some big loose blocks stacked in the back of the chimney. It was getting pretty dark and we may have missed an easier way to get up. 5.9 moves and a lot of 4th class/ easy 5th class and a couple aid moved because I’m a chicken when it’s dark.

Descent: walked off toward town. Stay high on the rock until the last bit. We scrambled down to soon (to the west) and had to do a bunch of unnecessary bushwhacking.

Location

The route is sandwiched between Wide Load (Route 3) and Route #2 in the obvious dihedral with bad piton scars.

Protection

Micro Nuts (offsets helpful) and micro cams, ball nuts (first two sizes), slings, doubles of standard rack, 1 #5 and #6 Camalot. You can do a two rope rap to the ground from the second pitch. Doesn't look to be anchors from then up. A walk off seems possible about a quarter of a mile to climbers left. NO HAMMER.

Photos

ACR
 
ACR  
 
Since the FA, someone has really beat the heck out of that first pitch. It's a shame. That cool feature is so delicate and interesting. I hooked and used slings looped over the serrations on the edge of the flake plus some blind micro-nuts. I thought it was pretty "heads up" when we first did it. My second cleaned it without a hammer.... Just flicked the rope and most of the looped slings came off.
We invested some effort to keep the rock looking nice. Too bad about its condition now. This wasn't a place for someone to nail. Jan 14, 2013
ACR
 
ACR  
 
First ascent by: AC Robertson and Todd Warren in 1997 I think (with AC finishing the line later). Jan 14, 2013
Jesse Zacher
Grand Junction, Co
 
Jesse Zacher   Grand Junction, Co  
 
Thanks for the info. It is always great to hear about the origins of a lot of these unknown routes. Any chance I could get your name to credit you for the FA? Thanks!
-Jesse Nov 15, 2011
ACR
 
ACR  
 
I did the first ascent of this route back in '97. It's actually called "da nada" and was originally done with only 3 pin placements (2 on the first pitch and 1 on the second) with lots of small wires and cams in sometimes sugary rock. We left nothing on the climb except 4 bolts with tan hangers (which seem to now be replaced with shiny hangers, but after all these years, who knows?). All bolts were hand drilled. I thought the original ascent was about 5.10- A3ish.

The first pitch (as I recall) was very thin, and I suspected the pillar was expanding... that’s why I didn’t nail much... it was scary! I actually stemmed across the pillar at its narrow point and hung supertape slings on notches on the edge of the flake to lessen the stress on the feature. The belay had two good bolts. A3 I just returned from a trip out there and went in to do Independence Monument and was amazed to see the damage repeats have done to that thing... amazed it's still standing.
Pitch two actually went left (clean) and over a sandy roof where I nailed for the last time in rotten white band just over the lip continued up to a slabby spot where I put the belay (two bolts). 5.10- A2
Pitch three was short and solid to a natural anchor on the right side of a good ledge. Probably C1+ on the FA, but I thought it would go free at 10ish. Anybody know?
Pitch four was no fun with some big loose blocks stacked in the back of the chimney. It was getting pretty dark, and we may have missed an easier way to get up. 5.9 moves and a lot of 4th class/ easy 5th class and a couple aid moved, because I’m a chicken when it’s dark.
Descent: walked off toward town. Stay high on the rock until the last bit. We scrambled down too soon (to the west) and had to do a bunch of unnecessary bushwhacking.

Hope this helps. Nov 15, 2011