Type: Aid, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: AC Robertson and Todd Warren, 1997?
Page Views: 1,698 total · 9/month
Shared By: Jesse Zacher on Jan 20, 2008
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

Pitch 1: The crux is 30 feet off the ground where you have to face some blown out piton scars. Bad gear and a fall might end you up on the talus. This goes clean, do not bring a hammer, there is already enough rock damage. Once you high step the last pecker scar trend right with the giant flake and make a semi free move to gain a rotten crack that widens to #5/6. Be careful of the block below the anchors as it is detached.

Pitch 2: is C1-ish through a roof and up a flare to belay anchors.

Pitch 3: was short and solid to a natural anchor on the right side of a good ledge. Probably C1+ on the FA but I thought it would go free at 10ish. Anybody know?

Pitch 4: was no fun with some big loose blocks stacked in the back of the chimney. It was getting pretty dark and we may have missed an easier way to get up. 5.9 moves and a lot of 4th class/ easy 5th class and a couple aid moved because I’m a chicken when it’s dark.

Descent: walked off toward town. Stay high on the rock until the last bit. We scrambled down to soon (to the west) and had to do a bunch of unnecessary bushwhacking.

Location Suggest change

The route is sandwiched between Wide Load (Route 3) and Route #2 in the obvious dihedral with bad piton scars.

Protection Suggest change

Micro Nuts (offsets helpful) and micro cams, ball nuts (first two sizes), slings, doubles of standard rack, 1 #5 and #6 Camalot. You can do a two rope rap to the ground from the second pitch. Doesn't look to be anchors from then up. A walk off seems possible about a quarter of a mile to climbers left. NO HAMMER.