Unknown Tower - Northwest Face
Avg: 2 from 3 votes
Routes in Monument Canyon
|Big Bertha T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Big Foot T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Carter Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Circle, Square, and the Triangle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Da Nada 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3-|
|Desert Solitaire T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c C1|
|Egypt Rock - The Revolution Will Not be Televised T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Elephant Head T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Euro Route T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Friends Can't Be Trusted S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a|
|Get A Life T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|Higher Mind Dynamics S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|It Ain't Over Til It's Loose T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Left Dihedral aka Dihedral 1 aka First Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Luhr's Route aka Right Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Monolith Spire - Dewar Dihedral T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Mormon Tea T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Out of the Frying Pan Into the Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Pharaoh Point - Chimney Wide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 R|
|Route 2 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Route 4 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Short Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Unknown Tower - Northwest Face T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R|
|Wide Load aka Route 3 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Wingate Warrior S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Wizard I T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Type:||Trad, 230 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Gary Ziegler, Gary Boucher, Bob Doane, John Auld, 1961, FFA? David Kozak, Eric Boehlke, 1983|
|Page Views:||909 total, 8/month|
|Shared By:||Airbiscuit on May 28, 2008|
|Admins:||Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is one of the originals. Mediocre climbing at best is made up for by an adventurous experience, a remote setting, and sweet views of the entire Momument Canyon.
P1: Climb a short pitch through the Chinle and up through a lieback (cruxy) to a bolted belay. 5.9.
P2: Climb this long pitch up through wondering wide terrain exiting a 5.9 squeeze (crux) and onto the ledge before the summit caprock.
P3: Climb a scary sequence off the belay to the summit. This is not worth it in my opinion. C1.
Double 70m ropes will get you to the ground with rope streach. Watch the pull as we got our ropes severly hung up when they fell. Better maybe to rap to the bench at the base of Pharoah Point and third class it to the base.