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Routes in Monument Canyon

Big Bertha T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big Foot T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Carter Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Circle, Square, and the Triangle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Da Nada 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3-
Desert Solitaire T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c C1
Egypt Rock - The Revolution Will Not be Televised T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Elephant Head T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Euro Route T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Friends Can't Be Trusted S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Get A Life T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Higher Mind Dynamics S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
It Ain't Over Til It's Loose T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Left Dihedral aka Dihedral 1 aka First Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Luhr's Route aka Right Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monolith Spire - Dewar Dihedral T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mormon Tea T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Out of the Frying Pan Into the Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pharaoh Point - Chimney Wide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 R
Route 2 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Route 4 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Short Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown Tower - Northwest Face T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Wide Load aka Route 3 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wingate Warrior S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wizard I T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 230 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Gary Ziegler, Gary Boucher, Bob Doane, John Auld, 1961, FFA? David Kozak, Eric Boehlke, 1983
Page Views: 909 total, 8/month
Shared By: Airbiscuit on May 28, 2008
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is one of the originals. Mediocre climbing at best is made up for by an adventurous experience, a remote setting, and sweet views of the entire Momument Canyon.

P1: Climb a short pitch through the Chinle and up through a lieback (cruxy) to a bolted belay. 5.9.

P2: Climb this long pitch up through wondering wide terrain exiting a 5.9 squeeze (crux) and onto the ledge before the summit caprock.

P3: Climb a scary sequence off the belay to the summit. This is not worth it in my opinion. C1.

Double 70m ropes will get you to the ground with rope streach. Watch the pull as we got our ropes severly hung up when they fell. Better maybe to rap to the bench at the base of Pharoah Point and third class it to the base.

Location

Follow the trail down from the upper Monument trailhead and head right down into the main wash as the main trail passes Clueless Tower and makes a hard left. Jog right into the wash and follow it upstream.

Protection

Singles to a #5 Friend. Hexes #5, 8, 10, 12.

Photos

David Kozak  
 
Leading all three pitches, I believe I did the first free ascent of this route with Eric Boehlke in 1983. On the second pitch was a large, razor sharp flake embedded in the wide crack. The crux of the route for me was getting past that flake without dislodging it. I suggested to Eric that he not touch it. He wasn't able to make the moves to get around it, so he used it as gently as possible to get away from it. No luck. He pulled it onto himself where it sliced through his pants and left a foot long gash on his thigh. With bleeding controlled, we topped out and rapped off without further excitement. Not the best route I've ever done, but the remote setting was cool. Nov 18, 2011
Those four did the FA in 1961. They were all members of the Colorado College Mountaineering Club. Gary told me that he made special bongs for the ascent that were over 8 inches wide! He said they sounded like a herd of cows walking to the base of the tower with all those clanking aluminum bongs. Jul 17, 2008