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Routes in Monument Canyon

Big Bertha T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big Foot T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Carter Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Circle, Square, and the Triangle S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Da Nada 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3-
Desert Solitaire T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c C1
Egypt Rock - The Revolution Will Not be Televised T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Elephant Head T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Euro Route T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Friends Can't Be Trusted S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Get A Life T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Higher Mind Dynamics S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
It Ain't Over Til It's Loose T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Left Dihedral aka Dihedral 1 aka First Dihedral T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Luhr's Route aka Right Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monolith Spire - Dewar Dihedral T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mormon Tea T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Out of the Frying Pan Into the Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pharaoh Point - Chimney Wide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 R
Route 2 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Route 4 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Short Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown Tower - Northwest Face T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Wide Load aka Route 3 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wingate Warrior S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wizard I T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Sport
FA: KC Baum, T Archibeque
Page Views: 2,732 total · 14/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Mar 12, 2002 with updates from Andy W
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a inviting looking bolt line just right of the ??/Luhr's Route aka Right Dihedral. It shares the same start. It is slopey, slabby, face climbing with modern bolts. With traffic, this route will change. It has a 3 bolt anchor and a 160 foot rappel. You might reach the belay of ??/Luhr's Route aka Right Dihedral. This route seems out of place in the desert.

Addendum: I included the guidebook rating for the route. It felt a touch stiff to an average climber.

Protection

15 quickdraws and something for the anchors.

Photos

Very thin slab route. Definitely at least a 5.10b if climbed the day after rain. The sand on the rock makes smearing a very delicate process. Also, be sure to bring enough draws (probably at least 13) and there is no good anchors for a single rope rap, so bring two cords. Last few bolts kinda run out at the top makes it a very exciting summit. Oct 31, 2004
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
I think the route is pretty hard for 5.9, and that's not just after a rain. The number of moves with climbing at the 5.9 level is significant, and there were a few cruxes that seemed harder. Perhaps this was a poor warm-up to the area, or perhaps I was not climbing well, but I and my partner (both at least solid 5.10 climbers) found this route to be an insecure challenge. Although the pace or nature of the route changes a few times along the way it never really lets up. Fun and challenging! May 9, 2005
Ben Boykin
Cheyenne, WY
 
Ben Boykin   Cheyenne, WY
 
We only went to the lower anchor (1 pitch) of this route. Found it to be a very thoughtful execution on my partners part (he was leading). Once in the grey band near the pitch's end, very few handholds, mostly smearing. Mar 27, 2007
Alex Garhart
  5.10a
Alex Garhart  
  5.10a
Very fun route, balancy and thin at times. Solid 5.10- in my opinion. Jul 22, 2007
Jared Spaulding
Central WY
Jared Spaulding   Central WY
Just 8 bolts to a solid two bolt anchor at about 90 feet. Fun slab climbing and much easier than the three to the left. Oct 14, 2008

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