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Routes in Monument Canyon

Big Bertha T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big Foot T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Carter Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Circle, Square, and the Triangle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Da Nada 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3-
Desert Solitaire T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c C1
Egypt Rock - The Revolution Will Not be Televised T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Elephant Head T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Euro Route T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Friends Can't Be Trusted S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Get A Life T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Higher Mind Dynamics S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
It Ain't Over Til It's Loose T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Left Dihedral aka Dihedral 1 aka First Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Luhr's Route aka Right Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monolith Spire - Dewar Dihedral T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mormon Tea T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Out of the Frying Pan Into the Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pharaoh Point - Chimney Wide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 R
Route 2 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Route 4 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Short Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown Tower - Northwest Face T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Wide Load aka Route 3 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wingate Warrior S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wizard I T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 260 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Stephen Angelini, Mack Johnson, August 1989
Page Views: 3,001 total, 24/month
Shared By: Ben Kiessel on Nov 9, 2007
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

P1. Start up the giant dihedral on the left side of the catcher's mitt. Climb a super fun hands to wide hands to fist crack past an anchor to a second anchor. When I climbed this, the anchor on top of pitch one was less than inspiring, but can be backed up with gear. (5.10, 130') Per Alex Garhart: it is now two bolts and a drilled angle.

This is the end of the route Dewar Dihedral but we continued to the summit via 'As Above So Below'.

P2. Traverse straight right off the belay past a thin crack, continue up and right over manky rock to a offwidth crack and join up with 'As Above So Below.' Climb the 5.9 ow to a large ledge and anchors (5.9, 60').

P3. Face climb a bolted arete to the bird crap covered summit (5.10+, 70').

Descent - rappel from the summit to the top of pitch 2. Then rappel off the back side of the tower to the ground.

The F.A. of 'As Above So Below' was done by - KC Baum, Andrea Heath, Peter Hollis, and Chris Monz in April 1989.

Location

Monolith Spire is above the trail as you hike in from Lower Monument Canyon Trailhead. If you need more directions checkout Eric's 'Desert Rock III.'

Protection

No small stuff necessary, doubles of everything from #0.5 to 4 Camalot, triples of #3 & 3.5 Camalots. One wide piece for pitch 2. Cord to replace anchors. Double ropes to rappel.
Ralph Swansen
Denver CO
  5.11+
Ralph Swansen   Denver CO
  5.11+
First 130' good 3 & 4 jamming (wide). Last two pitches on crummy rock and waaay harder than 10+. No way to bail from the top of the offwidth pitch. So unless you are comfortable on 11s, be prepared to aid the bolts to the top! Sep 28, 2013
george wilkey
travelers rest sc
george wilkey   travelers rest sc
Great climb! Bring your big gear, this route eats 3s and 4s. Jun 13, 2013
Next team to go to the top bettter bring a drill. These 2 summit 1/4"s are starting to have some pretty good wiggle to them. Apr 8, 2013
Jordan Winters
Minturn, CO
  5.10+
Jordan Winters   Minturn, CO
  5.10+
We used the belay halfway up the dihedral so we could re-use the gear from pitch 1 (drilled angle and bolt were in good shape). Dihedral pitches were fantastic (felt like 10+). Got shut down on the OW (pitch 3) due to lack of big gear. Rock Climbing Colorado calls that pitch 5.10 offwidth, and by looking at it, I would have to agree. Pretty lousy rock, bring some big gear for that pitch or have some big balls, ha. Mar 19, 2013
Mickey Guziak
Grand Junction
  5.10c
Mickey Guziak   Grand Junction
  5.10c
Such an awesome first 2 pitches!! Nov 26, 2012
Alex Garhart  
 
Anchors at the top of pitch one consist of two bolts and a drilled angle. Looks solid now, what a fun pitch. Feb 14, 2010