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Routes in Monument Canyon

Big Bertha T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big Foot T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Carter Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Circle, Square, and the Triangle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Da Nada 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3-
Desert Solitaire T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c C1
Egypt Rock - The Revolution Will Not be Televised T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Elephant Head T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Euro Route T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Friends Can't Be Trusted S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Get A Life T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Higher Mind Dynamics S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
It Ain't Over Til It's Loose T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Left Dihedral aka Dihedral 1 aka First Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Luhr's Route aka Right Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monolith Spire - Dewar Dihedral T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mormon Tea T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Out of the Frying Pan Into the Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pharaoh Point - Chimney Wide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 R
Route 2 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Route 4 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Short Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown Tower - Northwest Face T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Wide Load aka Route 3 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wingate Warrior S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wizard I T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Kurt Luhr
Page Views: 3,640 total, 18/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Mar 28, 2001
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is the left-facing dihedral in Area 1 of the Side Areas. Decent climbing, but not the best rock. Start on a sport route and face climb past three bolts, only clipping the last two with 24" runners to give some pro for the first 20 feet. Then move into the dihedral and make some awkward moves to get going. Watch out for some loose blocks here. The rest of the climb is nice with good liebacking to the anchors. The technical crux is using some crimps past the bolts, but the awkward move in the dihedral is kinda hard, too.

Per Troy from Tooele: This route is located about 12 feet left of "Circle Square and the Triangle." I would admit that this route is much easier than it looks. Clip the starting bolts, long runner the last one before the crack, then enjoy the giant left arch. Clip a bomber chain anchor and lower. One rope will get you to the deck. Pretty clean, with a cool ledge to sit and have a smoke on about 50' up. Enjoy!!!

Eds. This was entered twice into the database. Now we've combined the 2 entries under the first entry.

Protection

Standard rack up to #4 Friend. Several shoulder slings for the first two bolts. 50m rope to lower off fixed anchor.

Per Troy from Tooele: Quickdraws, one long runner for the last bolt before you enter the crack system. Cams to 3.5", big cam is completely optional. Runners for the cams would prove useful.
Chabot
CO
Chabot   CO
The first bolt is now on the ground at the base of the climb. It appears the bolt was placed in a flake that detached. The moves are now easier, because there is a big ledge where the break happened, but the ledge you have to pull up on/stand on is very delicate (bends easily in your hand on left side and hollow when tapped). We propped up the bolted flake at the base of the climb to give others fair warning. Jul 25, 2015
Cameron Turner
Eagle
  5.8
Cameron Turner   Eagle
  5.8
Fun route, worth doing. Gets easier the higher you go. Apr 29, 2015
george wilkey
travelers rest sc
george wilkey   travelers rest sc
Fun climb but no more than 5.8. Jun 15, 2013
BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
  5.8
BJ Sbarra   Carbondale, CO
  5.8
Though the description says to only clip the first two bolts, I found it nice to clip all three, putting a double length sling on the 3rd. This will keep you protected pulling the moves into the corner, otherwise you are soloing at that point if you only clip the first two. Apr 22, 2013
Alexander Nees
Grand Junction, CO
  5.9
Alexander Nees   Grand Junction, CO
  5.9
Good climbing, with excellent rock. Don't know if it's cleaned up since the original description was written, but this is a really nice climb now. Sep 23, 2012
boydpainting
Estes Park CO
boydpainting   Estes Park CO
No more difficult than 5.8 at the start(first two bolts). The rest climbs at a nice 5.6+ or .7-. IMO, If the arch is keeping you from climbing this, well, shit I say climb it! If you can slab a little 5.8, you should have the crack dialed. Nov 20, 2009
Mikelsons Mikelsons
Boulder, CO
  5.8
Mikelsons Mikelsons   Boulder, CO
  5.8
The crux is climbing past the two bolts at the start. It's balancy slab climbing, but not too hard. The dihedral is a blast. There's lot's of variety and several options for climbing. I cleaned it and climbed it with stemming and jamming while facing left. My friend Wayne on his third day of climbing ever top-roped it. He faced right, into the crack, and jammed it. Oct 28, 2009
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
This has also been called "Luhr's Route?" 5.8 start? 5.7 rest? Fun. Looks harder than it turns out to be. Enjoy. Mar 12, 2002
Very fun route. When it looks like it might get hard there is always a huge jug. The traverse under the arch to the anchors has huge feet. Pretty generously graded -no where near that difficult. Jun 5, 2001