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Routes in Monument Canyon

Big Bertha T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big Foot T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Carter Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Circle, Square, and the Triangle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Da Nada 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3-
Desert Solitaire T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c C1
Egypt Rock - The Revolution Will Not be Televised T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Elephant Head T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Euro Route T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Friends Can't Be Trusted S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Get A Life T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Higher Mind Dynamics S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
It Ain't Over Til It's Loose T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Left Dihedral aka Dihedral 1 aka First Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Luhr's Route aka Right Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monolith Spire - Dewar Dihedral T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mormon Tea T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Out of the Frying Pan Into the Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pharaoh Point - Chimney Wide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 R
Route 2 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Route 4 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Short Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown Tower - Northwest Face T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Wide Load aka Route 3 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wingate Warrior S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wizard I T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,625 total, 21/month
Shared By: Tom Dansby on Jul 23, 2003
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

We climbed 2 different routes, and found them to be challenging yet not overwhelming. There is something for all us novices to work on; convex face, dimpled face, finger and hand crack, 1-4 inch ledges, etc.

See the photos: press onto a 3 inch ledge (#1) and work along it and some toe cracks to a finger and hand crack on the left (#2).Climb the crack to another small ledge and work right on the convex wall to a bolt hanger (#3). Or power over the dimpled face with smooth 1 finger pockets and toe smears to the hanger (#3). Continue up and right to the top of the elephants head (#4). From here, it is finger holds and toe smears up and left to the second bolt hanger (#5) then an easy scramble up to the top (#6).

Protection

There are 2 bolt hangers to the left of the elephant head. Trees and boulders for TR anchors are 10-20 feet from edge, so longer webbing needed for anchor.

Location

Follow Monument Canyon trail from Trail head on CO Hwy 340. Where trail leaves fence to follow creek bed:

To the top: 30 yards up the trail on the right, follow a drainage to the bottom of the sloping flatrock. Level 2 hike up this for about 150- 200 feet and find 3 sets of chickenheads set for TR anchors. These were set by local climbing school. Continue up the slope another 150 feet to an area with several trees large enough to use for TR anchors.

To the bottom: continue on the trail for about 100 yards to a rock outcropping that resembles an elephant head and trunk (or skull). This rock is directly below the above described TR area. (See pictures). There are 2 bolt hangers to the left of the elephant head.
Tristan Burnham
La Crescenta, CA
Tristan Burnham   La Crescenta, CA
I just lead the undercling crack and then clipped the second bolt and then went to the top. We TRed the true line, and it's a little chossy getting to first bolt. Oct 25, 2013
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
Any idea what those routes downhill from this with the drilled pin TR anchors go at? There are 3 of them easiest on the left and hardest on the right (looking at the slab from the base). Apr 3, 2011