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Routes in Other areas

Colorado Choss T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mother's Day T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rainbow Tower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1+
Sunken Curve Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, Aid, 220 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Jon Butler, Jesse Harvey, 27 August 1995.
Page Views: 1,458 total · 11/month
Shared By: Ben Kiessel on Nov 9, 2007
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Rainbow Tower climbs an obvious, giant, left-facing dihedral.

P1- Climb through 10' of mank to get into a thin, splitter crack. Climb this crack on small gear for a ways until it widens out and you see a pin out right that will take you to a 2 pin anchor in an alcove. (5.6, C1, 115').

P2- To continue form the alcove there are 3 crack options...you pick. They will all work. We climbed the center crack with very awkward 5.9 to get into a chimney. Climb the chimney to two aid bolts. Aid past the two bolts to the Torpedo Block and an anchor in a notch. (5.9, C1, 65') - If you climb the right crack, it will meet up with the center crack in the chimney. If you climb the left crack, it will meet up with the other two just before the torpedo block.

P3-Climb the short crack to pin holes. Hand place pins in the holes and aid up the face to a mantle onto the summit. (5.7, C1+, 40').

When we climbed this, we topped out on the summit to find no anchor. The rope that was slung around the summit by the last party to rappel must have blown away. We decided that two pins would be less of an eye sore than a rope around the summit, so I replaced the pins that we once there.

Descent - rappel from the summit to the notch on top of pitch 2. From here, do one double rope rappel to the ground.

Location

Rainbow Tower is southeast of Kissing Couple. When walking down from Upper Monument Canyon Trailhead, pass Clueless Tower and it is the next tower on your left.

Protection

Triples of black Alien to #2 Camalot, Single set from #3 to #4 Camalot, Stoppers, cord to replace the anchor. 4 baby angles for hand placing in the holes on the last pitch. 2 ropes to rappel. No hammer, the route goes clean.

Photos

More photos and a TR at: piquaclimber.net/past/rainb… May 28, 2008
Peter Blank
Grand Junction, Colorado
 
Peter Blank   Grand Junction, Colorado
 
Those piton holes on the last pitch are pretty retarded. I'd hesitate to call them usable. Nov 18, 2013

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