Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Guy Lord and company
Page Views: 3,770 total · 16/month
Shared By: Troy from Tooele on Oct 9, 2002
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

Covered in Eric Bjorstad's book, I stumbled upon this climb. It is about 1/4" up (west) of the concentration of slab routes lower in the canyon.

Ascend a delightful finger crack to a ledge. This crack faces east. Above the crack clip a few bolts then move up and left into a corner. Another clip and one or two pieces of gear will get you to a ledge with a two bolt anchor. This route is surprisingly good. Except for a sugary section halfway up, the route is quite clean. With more travel, it'll get even cleaner. There are two slab moves.

I personally felt this to be better than Carter's 5.8 dihedral and Luhrs Route.

Protection

Small to mid-size cams up to 2", quickdraws, one rope.

Photos