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Routes in Monument Canyon

Big Bertha T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big Foot T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Carter Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Circle, Square, and the Triangle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Da Nada 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3-
Desert Solitaire T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c C1
Egypt Rock - The Revolution Will Not be Televised T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Elephant Head T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Euro Route T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Friends Can't Be Trusted S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Get A Life T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Higher Mind Dynamics S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
It Ain't Over Til It's Loose T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Left Dihedral aka Dihedral 1 aka First Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Luhr's Route aka Right Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monolith Spire - Dewar Dihedral T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mormon Tea T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Out of the Frying Pan Into the Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pharaoh Point - Chimney Wide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 R
Route 2 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Route 4 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Short Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown Tower - Northwest Face T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Wide Load aka Route 3 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wingate Warrior S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wizard I T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Guy Lord and company
Page Views: 2,708 total, 15/month
Shared By: Troy from Tooele on Oct 9, 2002
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Covered in Eric Bjorstad's book, I stumbled upon this climb. It is about 1/4" up (west) of the concentration of slab routes lower in the canyon.

Ascend a delightful finger crack to a ledge. This crack faces east. Above the crack clip a few bolts then move up and left into a corner. Another clip and one or two pieces of gear will get you to a ledge with a two bolt anchor. This route is surprisingly good. Except for a sugary section halfway up, the route is quite clean. With more travel, it'll get even cleaner. There are two slab moves.

I personally felt this to be better than Carter's 5.8 dihedral and Luhrs Route.


Small to mid-size cams up to 2", quickdraws, one rope.


george wilkey
travelers rest sc
george wilkey   travelers rest sc
After the initial crack, this route had a couple of moves that seemed stiffer than 5.9. Well protected and a fun route! Jun 13, 2013
Ben Boykin
Cheyenne, WY
  5.9 PG13
Ben Boykin   Cheyenne, WY
  5.9 PG13
The initial is crack is worthy of 4 stars, but then the serious face comes. I didn't have the whatfor to continue beyond the first bolt. Seems like it may actually be the "second bolt" since Desert Rock III was published. I saw what appeared to be a broken-off bolt between the end of the crack and the reachy first bolt. Mar 27, 2007
Guy Lord
Guy Lord  
I put this up with my father as a belay slave (it was after the time he had stopped climbing, but he still enjoyed coming out to watch). There used to be a huge flake at the little ledge just after the crux. I cleaned this, along with some other crumbling stuff on lead, which made the first ascent rather interesting. He still recalls having hundred pound blocks landing next to him on the ground. I tried to make this route as safe as possible, while maintaining a traditional asthetic. However, anyone who climbs in the Monument must keep in mind the fact that rock there is very rotten. For those who haven't climbed much in the area BE CAREFULL! The thing that always bothered me about the climb was the descent. If you try to rap straight down from the belay station on a single rope, you'll have a little drop at the bottom. Oct 6, 2003
Scott Conner
Lyons, CO
Scott Conner   Lyons, CO
This is a great climb to hit on the way to or from Independence Monument. It's about a 5 minute scramble off the trail. I thought clipping, and moving past the first bolt was the crux. Be careful near the top, the rock becomes fragile and somewhat loose. Jun 9, 2003