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Routes in Monument Canyon

Big Bertha T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big Foot T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Carter Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Circle, Square, and the Triangle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Da Nada 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3-
Desert Solitaire T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c C1
Egypt Rock - The Revolution Will Not be Televised T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Elephant Head T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Euro Route T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Friends Can't Be Trusted S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Get A Life T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Higher Mind Dynamics S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
It Ain't Over Til It's Loose T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Left Dihedral aka Dihedral 1 aka First Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Luhr's Route aka Right Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monolith Spire - Dewar Dihedral T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mormon Tea T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Out of the Frying Pan Into the Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pharaoh Point - Chimney Wide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 R
Route 2 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Route 4 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Short Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown Tower - Northwest Face T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Wide Load aka Route 3 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wingate Warrior S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wizard I T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Harvey T. Carter
Page Views: 3,403 total, 17/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Mar 28, 2001
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is the right-facing dihedral at the Side Areas at area 1. A clean finger and hand crack crack offers good jams up the ramp to the chains. This route's first pitch and the other dihedral are good warmups for getting used to the sandstone in the area.

Pitch one goes at ~5.8+.

P2: per ??: The second pitch goes free at about 11+/12-.

Protection

Standard rack with an extra #1 and 1.5 Friend. Also a #4 Friend. 50m rope to lower off fixed anchor.

For P2 per ??: The thin sections protect reasonably well with micro stoppers (Metolius offsets are quite useful). A single set of Camalots #0.1-2, a single set of offset micro stoppers, and a couple extra hand size pieces will suffice for protection (for free climbing it).
Cameron Turner
Eagle
  5.8+
Cameron Turner   Eagle
  5.8+
Good route, good gear, do it :) Apr 29, 2015
Mikelsons Mikelsons
Boulder, CO
  5.7+
Mikelsons Mikelsons   Boulder, CO
  5.7+
This is a beautiful line and it must be climbed. I lead it and it's solid 5.7. There's not much variety in the moves - just layback the whole thing. There are at least two good rests. If you're in this area, climb this one! Oct 28, 2009
Jesse Zacher
Grand Junction, Co
Jesse Zacher   Grand Junction, Co  
The second pitch goes clean at C2. Bring some small nuts and cams and two large Cam Hooks. Watch out for the loose blocks up top. The anchors are are in good condition. A 70 meter rope with stretch makes you to the ground barely. Oct 21, 2008
Ben Boykin
Cheyenne, WY
  5.9
Ben Boykin   Cheyenne, WY
  5.9
First pitch only. Dang this was hard for me. Didn't keep my feet high enough so I was struggling all the way. Hate liebacks, so I guess I was asking for trouble: Climbed it as a thin hands/fingers crack. Don't do that! Lieback the thing, jam when it opens up for you, & rest.

Beautiful route. Mar 27, 2007
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
[Fun] intro to [the] area and rock there. The route [is] good on the bottom pitch, and looks good on the top 5.10 section, although I did not do that, and apparently nobody else does either. The book claims A3 to get to that, but in reality it looks like 2 bomber cams to a perfect cam-hook crack for maybe 5 meters. A3? No. I wish I'd taken a few cam- hooks or Crack'n-ups on the trip to enable me to go up for the top of this one. May 9, 2005
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
Known as First Dihedral in Desert Rock III. Can rap from chains 50' feet up. Harder than it looks, with the first of 2 cruxes @ 30'. Protects well and solid rock. Apr 18, 2003
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
This is also known as Dihedral #1 from the old Desert Rock guide. It has 2 pitches. Done by Harvey T Carter. 2nd pitch is 10+ A3. Thin, Challenging, inviting. Mar 9, 2002
Quality route-what you see is what you get from the ground. Low angle makes it easier than it appears though. The right angling 5.9 diagonal crack just to the left that finishes directly abouve the left dihedral is very worth doing although the start has a bit of dubious rock. Jun 5, 2001