Type: Trad, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Kor
Page Views: 11,389 total · 40/month
Shared By: Matt Bauman on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

P1. Step across the scary little gap and plug a finger size piece to protect the tips/lieback start (10+) which opens to a perfect hand crack...steep...then gets fists toward top. Traverse left at fixed pieces (or continue up the grungy crack above, not recommended) and optional belay at 2 piton belay (scary and uncomfortable). It may be better to link into P2.

P2. Go up crack/corner/chimney using big cams and old bolts on wall for pro...sustained chimneying for a pitch to a big ledge with a chain anchor (3 drilled angles).

P3. Continue with more of the same chimneying with a mix of modern bolts and drilled angles to the nice summit. We only had up to #3 Camalot, and it was a bit scary...#4 and #5 cams would be good for pitches 2 and 3.

Descend by making 2 raps (60m rope): first to the top of P2 chain anchor, then to ground.

Protection Suggest change

Lots of cams...especially hand-sized and a few large pieces might come in handy for the chimneys.