Type: Trad, 450 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Petefish & company, circa 1992
Page Views: 2,579 total · 15/month
Shared By: Airbiscuit on Mar 29, 2006
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is one of the Best Routes in The Momument hands down! as well as the prominence of being the most accessible, full-length route out there. Just right of Sentinel Spire (approximately 200') lies a HUGE corner that extends the full length of the canyon wall. (There are two distinct approaches; I recommend climbing from the ground up first, so you know what you are getting into when you downclimb!) (and you will want to do this climb many, many, times!)

Eyeball the large dihedral that makes up this fine route from the rim. The last belay lies directly under the HUGE overhang, and the anchors are hard to see. Grasp a line and an idea where you are going then downclimb a moderately loose but an easy 5.7 pitch to the belay under the overhang. (Do not try to rappel!) Leave slings and rappel two excellent stations to either: terra firma; or, (if you want to avoid an extremely unpleasant and extremely short, 5.11+, dirty fingers crux right off the ground) land on the ledge directly above this section and diss the crap, in lieu of an awesome and sustained 5.10a experience to the rim.

At the ledge, belay off a pixed pin and a cam down low.

Climb exciting 5.10 face for three pins, then enter the chimney. Excellent, clean, and well protected climbing lead to an exposed and super-exciting traverese left onto the ledge with a good anchor. Retrieve your rappel gear.

P2 starts with a what looks like a little mank, (watch your gear!) but in reality; excellent and thought provoking movement lead into a sustained 120' perfect hand crack all the way to the belay. Retrieve your rappel gear.

Continue up the 5.7 line of least resistance out and to the right.
This route is SOOOOOOOOOOO good!

Location

Start 200 feet climber's left of the start of Medicine Man.

Protection

Singles with many hand size pieces, few extra thin hands and fingers. If doing the full deal, bring a few small TCUs for the bottom. Nuts, etc. nothing larger than a #4 Friend.

Photos