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Egypt Rock - The Revolution Will Not be Televised
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British R
Avg: 3.4 from 5
votes
Early Access
Routes in Monument Canyon
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Big Bertha T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Big Foot T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Carter Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Circle, Square, and the Triangle S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crispy Corner V-easy 3 |
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Da Nada 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3- |
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Desert Solitaire T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C0 |
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Egypt Rock - The Revolution Will Not be Televised T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Elephant Head T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Euro Route T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Friends Can't Be Trusted S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Get A Life T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Higher Mind Dynamics S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Industrial Strength AKA Wide Load T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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It Ain't Over Til It's Loose T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Left Dihedral aka Dihedral 1 aka First Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Luhr's Route aka Right Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Monolith Spire - Dewar Dihedral T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Mormon Tea T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Otto's Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C0 PG13 |
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Out of the Frying Pan Into the Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pharaoh Point - Chimney Wide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 R |
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Pina Colada V2 5+ |
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Rainbow Tower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1+ |
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Route 2 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Route 4 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Short Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Snake Eyes V1 5 |
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Unknown Tower - Northwest Face T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Wide Load aka Route 3 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wingate Warrior S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Wizard I T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
| GPS: | 39.10162, -108.72271 |
| FA: | James Stover & Paul Stoner |
| Page Views: | 3,723 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Airbiscuit on Aug 17, 2009 |
| Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, N R, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
I wasn't going to post this, but in reality, it was pretty good and eventually will probably become a Monument classic. So, here it goes. This is a free variation to the original Gary Ziegler, Bob Doan, and Gary Boucher's 1961 aid line of the true Egypt Rock.
It took some cleaning, but overall, it is of great quality for the grade. I would put this Monument adventure right up there with Lizards and Scorpions, Fast Draw, and the Kor Route on Kissing Couple.
Approach this five headed monster from the south. You are climbing a crack system on the South Face.
P1. From the South, bushwhack up the chimney separating the tower from the rim until you are at a stance 30 feet below a lone, scraggly bramble of some kind. This belay put you directly in the bullseye for anything that comes down, so climb with caution. 30 feet of chossaneering leads to steeper and better rock on the right wall. Finally make a committing move right to gain a big ledge system, +/- 70', 5.8.
P2. Find the line of weakness, and run out the slab 50' horizontally to the right. There is no pro. If you fall here, you are going to get hurt for the second or the leader. Belay at an old ring angle and natural gear on a great ledge, 50', 5.5.
P3. You are now at the base of a great pitch, and I won't spoil it for you, but follow the line of least resistance up and left of the original aid line passing many ancient relics. Once at the anchor, short rope 20' to the huge platform below the five summit caps, 160'+/-, 5.10.
P4. Take your pick, there are no anchors on any of them. Figure out how to get down without making a mess (of the rock or yourself), 15', 5.8.
Rappel from 2 solid stations back to terra firma.
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