Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: T. Gregory & S. Ohkawa
Page Views: 1,701 total · 14/month
Shared By: mountainsense on Sep 17, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


The Master Scriptorian climbs the beautiful, white tiered slab exposed by the rockfall that eliminated Mountain Monkey Swing (K. Davis, B. Robins, 1985). Scramble 200 feet up the left side of the Great White Icicle--easy 4th to 5th class--to the base. Climb balancey moves on crisp edges past two bolts. Mantle the first roof, then stem your way up the corner, taking advantage of the small wires and cam placements... Mantle past the second roof and onto the steeper slab above. After two bolts, the climbing eases as face holds and cracks appear. Belay from a stance on a protruding block; the bolt can be backed up using small wires or cams.


Bring QDs and a light rack--small wires and small to medium cams.


Ty Gregory
Salt Lake City
Ty Gregory   Salt Lake City
[UPDATE] In an effort to address the feedback I have received (this route is piss scary) I have added two bolts. One above the second bolt and another above the first overhang, the bolt above the first overhang ought to be hung with a long draw. I would be wary of the blocks above the first roof as you move along left and up to the upper face, one pillar in particular upon close inspection appears to be detached so if someone decides to kick it off make sure no one is below as the waterfall attracts visitors. May 10, 2012
Stay focused, don't panic and keep breathing. These were going thru my mind today during an epic on Master Scriptorian. I have been eyeing that line for quite awhile and decided to give it a go.
I had heard of some loose blocks but had no idea of what was in store. Up to the first roof was great climbing on solid granite. At the roof I was not sure if I stayed right along the areate or tend left. Because the bolt was a bit to the right and the edge was good I went right til I reached the big roof. I placed a cam under the block and gave it a tug and the whole thing slid onto my lap.
It was big....it rolled off my left leg and headed towards the gully. OK, I thought Mike is out of the way and OH SHIT the block exploded my rope in two.
There I was free climbing above a 120' fall with no pro. Stay focused, Dont panic and Keep breathing. How I didn't come off with the block I have no idea, but i didn't.

I quickly got a two finger hold and held it for 20 minutes. I was able to get a nut and a small cam in for an anchor, but I didn't trust it so I hung on.
Mike after making sure I was safe and fairly stable soloed the crack to the left of the climb to the Ice anchors in the gully. (5-5 solo) He set up a single rope rapel with the remaining rope and rescued me. Thank Goddness for calm quick action. I can still feel the adrenalin several hours later.
The climb is a little safer now. however, I am still suspect of the left edge above the roof that seemed hollow. It is a place for a cam and nuts which may cause it to go if you fell on it. Anyway be carefull out there, anything can happen at anytime. Thanks again to Mike Pond for his quick action....Cheers see you on the rock. Jul 28, 2013
That's not cool. Glad you guys are both safe.
Does this thing need more cleaning or did you get the main culprit? Aug 2, 2013