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Master Scriptorian
5.10- R,
Trad, 100 ft (30 m),
Avg: 3 from 3
votes
FA: T. Gregory & S. Ohkawa
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Great White Icicle Area
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
The Master Scriptorian climbs the beautiful, white tiered slab exposed by the rockfall that eliminated Mountain Monkey Swing (K. Davis, B. Robins, 1985). Scramble 200 feet up the left side of the Great White Icicle--easy 4th to 5th class--to the base. Climb balancey moves on crisp edges past two bolts. Mantle the first roof, then stem your way up the corner, taking advantage of the small wires and cam placements... Mantle past the second roof and onto the steeper slab above. After two bolts, the climbing eases as face holds and cracks appear. Belay from a stance on a protruding block; the bolt can be backed up using small wires or cams.
Protection
Bring QDs and a light rack--small wires and small to medium cams.
![Tyler pulling the first roof]()
[Hide Photo] Tyler pulling the first roof
![in the rock-scar: the red line shows the route (though the start is obscured by rock in the foreground).]()
[Hide Photo] in the rock-scar: the red line shows the route (though the start is obscured by rock in the foreground).
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Salt Lake City
I had heard of some loose blocks but had no idea of what was in store. Up to the first roof was great climbing on solid granite. At the roof I was not sure if I stayed right along the areate or tend left. Because the bolt was a bit to the right and the edge was good I went right til I reached the big roof. I placed a cam under the block and gave it a tug and the whole thing slid onto my lap.
It was big....it rolled off my left leg and headed towards the gully. OK, I thought Mike is out of the way and OH SHIT the block exploded my rope in two.
There I was free climbing above a 120' fall with no pro. Stay focused, Dont panic and Keep breathing. How I didn't come off with the block I have no idea, but i didn't.
I quickly got a two finger hold and held it for 20 minutes. I was able to get a nut and a small cam in for an anchor, but I didn't trust it so I hung on.
Mike after making sure I was safe and fairly stable soloed the crack to the left of the climb to the Ice anchors in the gully. (5-5 solo) He set up a single rope rapel with the remaining rope and rescued me. Thank Goddness for calm quick action. I can still feel the adrenalin several hours later.
The climb is a little safer now. however, I am still suspect of the left edge above the roof that seemed hollow. It is a place for a cam and nuts which may cause it to go if you fell on it. Anyway be carefull out there, anything can happen at anytime. Thanks again to Mike Pond for his quick action....Cheers see you on the rock. Jul 28, 2013
Does this thing need more cleaning or did you get the main culprit? Aug 2, 2013
Salt Lake City, UT