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Routes in Great White Icicle Area

A Pinch of Salt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ape Index T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Astair S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Block Party, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Daddy Long Legs T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dancing in the Moonlight T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Done and Dusted T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Evening Falls T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Genuflect Falls WI3+ R
Great White Icicle, The WI3
Grinning Gibbons T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Master Scriptorian T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
More Funky Than Monkey T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Mountain Monkey Swing T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Pandora's Blocks T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Plain Kipper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
River's Edge, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Small Block S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Snow Slab T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tap N Stance T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Toe Shoes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Viet Cong Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Ice, 180 ft
FA: Brian Cabe and Matt Scullion 1 February 2009
Page Views: 1,293 total · 11/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Mar 24, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


180 foot pitch up low angle corners with steps/bulges leading to a steeper falls. Goes low angle again above the obvious steeper falls. We left a couple of slings for rappel anchors (left of the steep rock bulge but right of the main ice flow) on a horizontal spike of rock backed up to a small tree/bush. Two rope rappel.

Seldom forming, ephemeral ice climb. Would need the right combination of snow, melt freeze, and sustained cold temperatures.


Nearly directly across the canyon from the East Gate Buttress. About a ½ to one mile down canyon and to the west of the Great White Icicle. Park as for the GWI, then walk down the carriage road until a reasonable path of least resistance leads to a shallow gully below the route. Note the metal memorial cross on the left below the bowl at the base of the route.


Selection of screws and rock gear. Placed 8 screws ranging from 10cm to 17 cm in very thin ice. Also placed four cams and two thin pitons. Sling was used on a couple of small bushes (dubious at best).


nice work, gentlemen! Apr 1, 2009

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