Type: Ice, 180 ft
FA: Brian Cabe and Matt Scullion 1 February 2009
Page Views: 1,330 total · 11/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Mar 24, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

180 foot pitch up low angle corners with steps/bulges leading to a steeper falls. Goes low angle again above the obvious steeper falls. We left a couple of slings for rappel anchors (left of the steep rock bulge but right of the main ice flow) on a horizontal spike of rock backed up to a small tree/bush. Two rope rappel.

Seldom forming, ephemeral ice climb. Would need the right combination of snow, melt freeze, and sustained cold temperatures.

Location

Nearly directly across the canyon from the East Gate Buttress. About a ½ to one mile down canyon and to the west of the Great White Icicle. Park as for the GWI, then walk down the carriage road until a reasonable path of least resistance leads to a shallow gully below the route. Note the metal memorial cross on the left below the bowl at the base of the route.

Protection

Selection of screws and rock gear. Placed 8 screws ranging from 10cm to 17 cm in very thin ice. Also placed four cams and two thin pitons. Sling was used on a couple of small bushes (dubious at best).

Photos

nice work, gentlemen! Apr 1, 2009