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Routes in Great White Icicle Area

A Pinch of Salt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ape Index T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Astair S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Block Party, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Daddy Long Legs T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dancing in the Moonlight T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Done and Dusted T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Evening Falls T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Genuflect Falls WI3+ R
Great White Icicle, The WI3
Master Scriptorian T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
More Funky Than Monkey T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Mountain Monkey Swing T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Pandora's Blocks T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Plain Kipper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
River's Edge, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Small Block S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Snow Slab T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tap N Stance T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Toe Shoes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Viet Cong Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Ice, 180 ft
FA: Brian Cabe and Matt Scullion 1 February 2009
Page Views: 1,280 total · 11/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Mar 24, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description [Edit]

180 foot pitch up low angle corners with steps/bulges leading to a steeper falls. Goes low angle again above the obvious steeper falls. We left a couple of slings for rappel anchors (left of the steep rock bulge but right of the main ice flow) on a horizontal spike of rock backed up to a small tree/bush. Two rope rappel.

Seldom forming, ephemeral ice climb. Would need the right combination of snow, melt freeze, and sustained cold temperatures.

Location [Edit]

Nearly directly across the canyon from the East Gate Buttress. About a ½ to one mile down canyon and to the west of the Great White Icicle. Park as for the GWI, then walk down the carriage road until a reasonable path of least resistance leads to a shallow gully below the route. Note the metal memorial cross on the left below the bowl at the base of the route.

Protection [Edit]

Selection of screws and rock gear. Placed 8 screws ranging from 10cm to 17 cm in very thin ice. Also placed four cams and two thin pitons. Sling was used on a couple of small bushes (dubious at best).

Photos

nice work, gentlemen! Apr 1, 2009

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