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Routes in Great White Icicle Area
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A Chorus Line T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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A Pinch of Salt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Ape Index T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Astair S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Block Party, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Bolted Ape S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Daddy Long Legs T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dancing in the Moonlight T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Done and Dusted T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Evening Falls T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Genuflect Falls WI3+ R |
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Great White Icicle, The WI3 |
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Grinning Gibbons T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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In Lyons Shadow T M3 |
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Lasso Slab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Low Friction Status S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Master Scriptorian T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R |
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microdiscectomy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3 M4+ Easy Snow PG13 |
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Monkey Business S M8 |
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Monkey Talk T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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More Funky Than Monkey T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Mountain Monkey Swing T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Pandora's Blocks T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Plain Kipper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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River's Edge, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Small Block S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Snow Slab T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Tap N Stance T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Toe Shoes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Viet Cong Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Ice, 180 ft (55 m) |
| GPS: | 40.56883, -111.74168 |
| FA: | Rick Wyatt and Mike Ruth in the 90s |
| Page Views: | 2,303 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Brian in SLC on Mar 24, 2009 |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
180 foot pitch up low angle corners with steps/bulges leading to a steeper falls. Goes low angle again above the obvious steeper falls. We left a couple of slings for rappel anchors (left of the steep rock bulge but right of the main ice flow) on a horizontal spike of rock backed up to a small tree/bush. Two rope rappel.
Seldom forming, ephemeral ice climb. Would need the right combination of snow, melt freeze, and sustained cold temperatures.
Location
Nearly directly across the canyon from the East Gate Buttress. About a ½ to one mile down canyon and to the west of the Great White Icicle. Park as for the GWI, then walk down the carriage road until a reasonable path of least resistance leads to a shallow gully below the route. Note the metal memorial cross on the left below the bowl at the base of the route.
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