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Routes in Great White Icicle Area

A Pinch of Salt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ape Index T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Astair S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Block Party, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Daddy Long Legs T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dancing in the Moonlight T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Done and Dusted T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Evening Falls T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Genuflect Falls WI3+ R
Great White Icicle, The WI3
Master Scriptorian T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
More Funky Than Monkey T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Mountain Monkey Swing T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Pandora's Blocks T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Plain Kipper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
River's Edge, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Small Block S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Snow Slab T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tap N Stance T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Toe Shoes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Viet Cong Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 150 ft
FA: Chris Begue and Win Steere '89
Page Views: 1,774 total, 12/month
Shared By: philfell on Aug 8, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This is the bolted line to the left of Daddy Long Legs. There is a run between the first and second bolt where a fall would put you all the way back to the ground, but the climbing is easy. After the second bolt the climbing get harder but the bolts get much closer. Fun, true slab climbing. There are no anchors up top, the best way to go is to belay from the tree at the top of the first pitch of Daddy Long Legs and then continue up the second picth and rappel from there (make sure you bring your trad gear for the second pitch).

Protection

Quickdraws, I placed one .5 camalot between the last bolt and the tree anchor, but it really isn't that critical. Double runners for the tree up top.

Location

Start: 20' right/south of Astair & 20' left/north of Daddy Long Legs.

Photos

Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
  5.10b PG13
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
  5.10b PG13
The slab keeps things exciting through the crux. Would say PG-13 tops, I feel the R is misleading, especially given how easy the climbing is down low. Worth a go even if you are working on the grade. Apr 28, 2016
Alec LaLonde  
 
From the new anchors, you can rap to the ground with a 70m. Pitch is more like 100 ft May 12, 2013
triznuty
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10b PG13
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10b PG13
Slick, but really really good! Jul 30, 2009
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
  5.10b PG13
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
  5.10b PG13
Its actually not based on a book, but, on a early 80's screen play based on a true story. The movie (1987) is edgy, but, really impressive. Crispin Glover's best effort? Hard thing to watch and then try to forget.

[Admin Note: This comment was in response to

"The River's Edge is named after a book & film about teenagers involved in the murder of a friend in a small town."

and was moved from a duplicate description] Aug 8, 2007

Sweeeet all is good.
Route repaired by FA.


Jul 25, 2007
Tony said,"Chris Begue does not want any protection bolts added to routes that he is the earliest known ascentionist. The words came straight out of his mouth.

If you look at the guidebook you will see the correct bolt count at the time of the first ascent. There are currently 8 bolts/studs on this route. Two are a replacement for the belay/rappel bush that died. The other two were added after the FA.

If that is confusing and needs clarification feel free to contact me privately."

But Chris told me he never heard from Tony about this route. He told me he added those bolts himself after the FA because he thought it made it a better climb. He was more than a little upset about your actions. Mar 16, 2007
Leroy Fielding
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10b PG13
Leroy Fielding   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10b PG13
Just tr-soloed this route yesterday evening. I counted five bolts to Tony's new anchor. Last year I thought there was another bolt between bolts 3&4, but couldn't, didn't see any patches or holes so I could be mistaken, (or it was an excellent patch job). I did see one more bolt above the new anchor while on Daddy long legs first pitch. I thought the crux was well protected, a little run to the 4th bolt which could be quite scary/stimulating on lead...... Sep 9, 2006
Nathan Fisher
  5.10b PG13
Nathan Fisher  
  5.10b PG13
My apologies to Mike. They were not ASCA hangers on River's Edge. Aug 26, 2006
Too bad these great climbs in the canyon are getting thrashed. Enough already with adding bolts for the sake of making them accessable to all. Especially on this climb where the hard climbing is well protected and the easy romp up to there is trivial. Does not warrant a R in my honest opinion. Aug 26, 2006
Chris Begue lives in Prescott with his son now. I can find him if you really want me to. He does come by slc from time to time as his mother just passed away and his father is elderly. He is more likely than not to keep bolts closer together but I don't think he'd want anything done without talking to him. Aug 25, 2006
Nathan Fisher
  5.10b PG13
Nathan Fisher  
  5.10b PG13
Like I said Brian, it was this year I saw the ASCA's. I could be wrong but I believe all the bolts not just one were ASCA's. AND, I am no way dissing Mike, just reporting what I "thought" I saw, same as with Astair. An extra bolt on that and again I "believe" ASCA hangers. However, I have been known to be wrong, it was a hot day and I spent a lot of time in that area, maybe I had some heat exhaustion going on.
Also, what's with the "Powerbolts in Stainless thing". Are you trying to say that I don't use proper bolts when I add to established routes? :) Or are you ripping on someone else, but can't quite do it? Aug 15, 2006
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
  5.10b PG13
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
  5.10b PG13
Proabably an errant hanger stamped with ASCA. Talked with Mike just the other day at the OR. He's not the addin' bolts to established climbs kinda guy. And, I really like he's using Powerbolts in stainless for the bolt replacement stuff (hint hint hint).

I climbed it last year, and, don't recall these newer bolts. Where were they?

Was run out climbing well below the rated grade of the route. But, through the crux, seemed adequately protected.

I just wonder if anyone talked to Chris. I think folks should make an effort to get square with the FA folks before they start making changes, good or bad, to someone else's route. And, if the FA guy is dead, then talk to his old partners.

Nevers seems to work out right when folks both add and subtract bolts and fixed pro from other people's routes, no matter how well intentioned. Aug 15, 2006
Nathan Fisher
  5.10b PG13
Nathan Fisher  
  5.10b PG13
I climbed it this year, and I swear they were "ASCA" bolts. Aug 15, 2006
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
  5.10b PG13
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
  5.10b PG13
Curious if you talked to Chris before you chopped the bolts on his route? I'm wondering if he is the one who went back and added them.
Anyone know?
When did these newer bolts show up? Aug 15, 2006
Nathan Fisher
  5.10b PG13
Nathan Fisher  
  5.10b PG13
"asca" on the bolt. How bigger a sign is there? Aug 2, 2006
Nathan Fisher
  5.10b PG13
Nathan Fisher  
  5.10b PG13
This route is actually to the left of Daddy Long Legs, and it has anchors now. There are 6 bolts on route now (thanks ASCA for changing a classic line), so it isn't that run out. May 13, 2006