Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: FA Dave Martin Aaron Rashaw FFA Jeremy Kellogg
Page Views: 2,228 total · 18/month
Shared By: Aaron Rashaw on Sep 8, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Location

20' left of Pandora's Blocks

Protection

nuts cams to .75 long runners draws 60 meter rope

Route Description

This route links up good slabs with some of the climbing over broken rock. P1. Do a groove, clip a bolt, climb between a block and a roof, then enjoy some fun stemming above 100' 5.9. P1 anchors are also the last rap for Pandora's Blocks. P2. Step left off the belay do some loose easy climbing past a pin and a bolt. Continue up angling left on cracks/slabs and launch into the roofs and flakes above. Take care to runner this pitch 135' 5.11-. P3. Step left off the belay do some friction moves and head back right shooting for the weakness in the roof. Pull the overlap and do friction and crystals straight up the middle of the slab 65' 5.11- Rap the route on P3 P2 and an alternate set of anchors below P2.

Photos

Dave Budge
North Slope of the Wrangells
Dave Budge   North Slope of the Wrangells
Good job fellas. Looks great! Can't wait to try it. Sep 8, 2008
Tea
Tea  
Nice work guys..way to keep the motivation mid-summer! Sep 8, 2008
Nice! Another South Side route. Sep 9, 2008
JBONE
 
JBONE  
 
If ya haven't, ya gotta! Sep 11, 2008
A great find, gentlemen--quality stone, super-fun moves and imaginative slab-work. What a fine addition to the southside! S Sep 7, 2009
johnny utah
Salt Lake City
 
johnny utah   Salt Lake City
 
Has anyone in all honesty freed the last pitch without using the second to last bolt for french free? It honestly seems like it isnt possible anymore / just not there... exfoliated off? below and above that point the climbing is good at 11-. Sep 5, 2017
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
5.11c
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
5.11c
This one makes Stiffler's Mom look easy. A bit of a sandbag. Or maybe save it for a day when it's not 80 degrees. Sep 8, 2018
johannsolo
So Cal, now in Sandy, UT
johannsolo   So Cal, now in Sandy, UT
Great route but hard. I did grab a draw on the last pitch but did free it all after lowering to the belay. I did onsite the second pitch but it was desperate for 11a. Sep 19, 2018