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Routes in Great White Icicle Area

A Pinch of Salt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ape Index T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Astair S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Block Party, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Daddy Long Legs T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dancing in the Moonlight T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Done and Dusted T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Evening Falls T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Genuflect Falls WI3+ R
Great White Icicle, The WI3
Master Scriptorian T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
More Funky Than Monkey T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Mountain Monkey Swing T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Pandora's Blocks T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Plain Kipper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
River's Edge, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Small Block S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Snow Slab T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tap N Stance T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Toe Shoes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Viet Cong Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: FA Dave Martin Aaron Rashaw FFA Jeremy Kellogg
Page Views: 2,154 total · 18/month
Shared By: Aaron Rashaw on Sep 8, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Location

20' left of Pandora's Blocks

Protection

nuts cams to .75 long runners draws 60 meter rope

Route Description

This route links up good slabs with some of the climbing over broken rock. P1. Do a groove, clip a bolt, climb between a block and a roof, then enjoy some fun stemming above 100' 5.9. P1 anchors are also the last rap for Pandora's Blocks. P2. Step left off the belay do some loose easy climbing past a pin and a bolt. Continue up angling left on cracks/slabs and launch into the roofs and flakes above. Take care to runner this pitch 135' 5.11-. P3. Step left off the belay do some friction moves and head back right shooting for the weakness in the roof. Pull the overlap and do friction and crystals straight up the middle of the slab 65' 5.11- Rap the route on P3 P2 and an alternate set of anchors below P2.

Photos

Dave Budge
North Slope of the Wrangells
Dave Budge   North Slope of the Wrangells
Good job fellas. Looks great! Can't wait to try it. Sep 8, 2008
Tea
Tea  
Nice work guys..way to keep the motivation mid-summer! Sep 8, 2008
Nice! Another South Side route. Sep 9, 2008
JBONE
 
JBONE  
 
If ya haven't, ya gotta! Sep 11, 2008
A great find, gentlemen--quality stone, super-fun moves and imaginative slab-work. What a fine addition to the southside! S Sep 7, 2009
johnny utah
Salt Lake City
 
johnny utah   Salt Lake City
 
Has anyone in all honesty freed the last pitch without using the second to last bolt for french free? It honestly seems like it isnt possible anymore / just not there... exfoliated off? below and above that point the climbing is good at 11-. Sep 5, 2017

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