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Routes in Great White Icicle Area

A Pinch of Salt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ape Index T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Astair S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Block Party, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Daddy Long Legs T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dancing in the Moonlight T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Done and Dusted T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Evening Falls T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Genuflect Falls WI3+ R
Great White Icicle, The WI3
Grinning Gibbons T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Master Scriptorian T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
More Funky Than Monkey T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Mountain Monkey Swing T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Pandora's Blocks T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Plain Kipper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
River's Edge, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Small Block S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Snow Slab T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tap N Stance T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Toe Shoes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Viet Cong Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, TR, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bill Robins, Mark Bennet, 1985
Page Views: 3,129 total · 17/month
Shared By: kBobby Hanson on Jun 30, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


This route climbs a seam in a slab about 100 feet right of the falls. On the left side of this slab is a bolted line (The River's Edge, 5.10b R **). Look for a seam.

(1) Climb up this seam through a small roof, and past a few more pins/bolts at horizontal cracks. Use every available pro. Stop at the second tree and belay. From the lower tree, you can definitely top-rope if you set up some directionals.

(2) On pitch two, climb up through the roof (5.9) or around it to the right (5.8), up through some bushy cracks to a 2-bolt anchor. The bolted line above is Evening Falls, 5.10a *.

Descent: Rappel the route.


Mostly small stuff on a standard rack


Did Evening falls years ago, and the crux was protected by an old leeper with a cracked hanger. Fun moves though. The crack above is great , a retro fitting of this route woould restore a great line to safe climbing. go do it. May 23, 2005
Man, I love this climb! It's been years since I've done it, but I think that it is an LCC sleeper classic! May 2, 2006
Nathan Fisher
St George
Nathan Fisher   St George  
I also felt the roof crack was harder than 5.9-. May 13, 2006
I climbed this for the first time last week and thought it was a very fun route. However, I was a bit surprised by the width of the crack over the top of the bulge on the 2nd pitch. I was expecting a hand crack the whole way, but it's much wider (#8 Metolius size). I agree with the consensus that it's harder than 5.9-. May 30, 2006
great route-the first pitch has some good slabby moves on it and is a bit run out between the manky pin and last bolt before the anchors. the second pitch crux was definitely harder than 5.9- for me; you have to make the move with most of your weight on your hands, and for me it was cupped hands. still, it's a really short move and the rest of the climb is like 5.6. super fun-needs more traffic. toproped the 10a bolted slab next to the first pitch- really fun- a must do if you have done the first pitch. Sep 2, 2006
Leroy Fielding
Salt Lake City, UT
Leroy Fielding   Salt Lake City, UT
Good route, tr'd the first pitch last night. Easy to walk up to the tree at the top of the first pitch, which also gives you easy access to the Rivers Edge anchors. When did the pin get replaced? I was kinda bummed to see the new bolt, sorta changes the character of he route. The pin was pretty bomber last year, at least more so than the first pin you encounter. There is another old pin maybe 5 ft above the bolt. If this pin gets pulled, please do not replace it with another bolt. If it does get pulled, try to pull it so natural protection can be used; unlike the other pin which didn't leave a pin scar when it was pulled/hammered/chipped out of place. Sep 9, 2006
shawn Kenney
Draper, UT
shawn Kenney   Draper, UT
This is a great line that takes gear great. The runout section is not bad at all. Don't let the runout stop you from climbing this awsome route. This should see alot more traffic. Sep 29, 2006
Sir Camsalot
thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Sir Camsalot   thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Keep his route 5.8 and skip the one-move-wonder-gruntfest on the second pitch. The 5.8 moves around the right of the roof are way better. Jul 1, 2008
Both ways over the roof are pretty good, one is easier, and the other a bit more of a grunt, but both good. Jul 1, 2008
Salt Lake City, UT
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
First pitch is amazing. Linkup with Evening Falls for a classic romp. Jul 30, 2009
ddriver   SLC
Based on the description here of 160' and Ruckman's topo showing an 80' first pitch, I took a single 70m for this. The second pitch (from the chains, not the tree ledge) is really about 120', so we did a short pull from the tree. Moving the first belay to the block right of the tree just makes too much sense to me. Seems the tree used to have slings? Oct 3, 2012
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
Yeah, RP, tree used to have slings (the tree below the roof used to be the end and anchor on the first pitch).

Was there a two bolt anchor on the upper face of the first pitch? That thing has to go. Maybe someone already took care of it?

You can rap down to River's Edge, too, and hit the ground from that anchor with a single 70 (maybe 60). Oct 4, 2012
ddriver   SLC
Yessir, two-bolt anchor on the face shortly after leaving the corner. One bolt and a pin above this belay before reaching the ledge. Seems out of place. Saw River's Edge anchors too late. Edit: Just did this last week so that belay is surely still there. Oct 10, 2012
Chop chop. Oct 10, 2012
Sir Camsalot
thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Sir Camsalot   thankgodchickenhead, Ut
The added anchor is still there. Right in the fucking middle of the spiciest part of that first pitch. There are also two new sets of anchors on River's Edge, one that obviously allows you TR/rap with a 60 and another 20 feet above that, right before the 5.9 second pitch of Daddy Long Legs. Same hardware as a certain fuckwad we all love, albeit sans autograph. If someone with some know-how will head up with me this weekend, I'm happy to help chop. Sep 5, 2013
Salt Lake City, UT
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
And was still there yesterday...

That anchor needs to go! It is unnecessary and sticks out like a sore thumb! I'm game unless the FA'ers step up and claim something (not sure that is possible on this one), aside from that, I will be more than happy to help remove them as well. PM me if/when you are thinking of going and doing it. Sep 10, 2013
and still there yesterday..... May 20, 2014
Duncan Campbell
Salt Lake City, Utah
Duncan Campbell   Salt Lake City, Utah
so I didn't read the beta on this and just kinda sent it, but I didn't end up doing the actual route but I think I did a worthy variation. I ended up following the crack system under the roof, and although it was mossy and dirt because of little to no traffic, I thought it was classic climbing. id probably call it 5.10ish and worthy of more ascents! please tell if anyone else has done this as well! Jun 28, 2016
First pitch is quality!! Second pitch not so much. One fun move over the bulge then broken cracks to anchors. I would definitely recommend doing this route then also doing Evening Falls.

Rack: Singles .2-1 Camalots, 8 slings Jun 25, 2017

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