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Routes in Great White Icicle Area
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A Chorus Line T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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A Pinch of Salt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Ape Index T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Astair S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Block Party, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Bolted Ape S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Daddy Long Legs T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dancing in the Moonlight T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Done and Dusted T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Evening Falls T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Genuflect Falls WI3+ R |
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Great White Icicle, The WI3 |
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Grinning Gibbons T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Master Scriptorian T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Monkey Business S M8 |
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Monkey Talk T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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More Funky Than Monkey T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Mountain Monkey Swing T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Pandora's Blocks T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Plain Kipper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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River's Edge, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Small Block S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Snow Slab T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Tap N Stance T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Toe Shoes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Viet Cong Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Bill Robins, Mark Bennet, 1985 |
| Page Views: | 4,247 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Bobby Hanson on Jun 30, 2003 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
This route climbs a seam in a slab about 100 feet right of the falls. On the left side of this slab is a bolted line (The River's Edge, 5.10b R **). Look for a seam.
(1) Climb up this seam through a small roof, and past a few more pins/bolts at horizontal cracks. Use every available pro. Stop at the second tree and belay. From the lower tree, you can definitely top-rope if you set up some directionals.
(2) On pitch two, climb up through the roof (5.9) or around it to the right (5.8), up through some bushy cracks to a 2-bolt anchor. The bolted line above is Evening Falls, 5.10a *.
Descent: Rappel the route.
(1) Climb up this seam through a small roof, and past a few more pins/bolts at horizontal cracks. Use every available pro. Stop at the second tree and belay. From the lower tree, you can definitely top-rope if you set up some directionals.
(2) On pitch two, climb up through the roof (5.9) or around it to the right (5.8), up through some bushy cracks to a 2-bolt anchor. The bolted line above is Evening Falls, 5.10a *.
Descent: Rappel the route.
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