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|Type:||Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 5 pitches|
|FA:||Kirsten Davis, Bill Robins: 1985|
|Page Views:||1,269 total · 7/month|
|Shared By:||GRK on Aug 15, 2006|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
This beginning of this route was destroyed by rockfall in the spring of 2007. The remainder of the climb remains intact and quite fun. A rare and great adventure awaits the curious climber who ventures up this gritty and scenic line.
Route navigation is a must here as this line is seldom traveled and faintly marked by protectable features. Expect to build anchors and use what's given to safely ascend your team to the top of the waterfall.
Protection and quality improve as you ascend. Expect a few nice surprises here and there, as there are natural and maybe a few fabricated anchors along the way. Thoughtfully rappel MMS or walk off lookers RIGHT (west) via game trails back to the bottom.
Since this line remains somewhat primitive, the pitch count is subjective. Gear can sometimes be tricky to find, but I wouldn't call this route dangerous. Saddle up and have fun!
Most climbers will be happy with a double set of cams and a single set of nuts up to 3 inches. Cordelettes and various sized slings will make your life easier and more satisfying.