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Pandora's Blocks
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 1.6 from 8
votes
Routes in Great White Icicle Area
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A Chorus Line T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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A Pinch of Salt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Ape Index T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Astair S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Block Party, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Bolted Ape S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Daddy Long Legs T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dancing in the Moonlight T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Done and Dusted T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Evening Falls T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Genuflect Falls WI3+ R |
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Great White Icicle, The WI3 |
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Grinning Gibbons T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Lasso Slab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Low Friction Status S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Master Scriptorian T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Monkey Business S M8 |
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Monkey Talk T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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More Funky Than Monkey T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Mountain Monkey Swing T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Pandora's Blocks T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Plain Kipper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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River's Edge, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Small Block S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Snow Slab T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Tap N Stance T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Toe Shoes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Viet Cong Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | yes |
| Page Views: | 3,015 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Anonymous Coward on Oct 16, 2004 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
This route is located between "The Great White Icicle" and "Pentapitch" area. There are two approaches. From pentapitch parking, take the Wasatch climbing guide description for the waterfall area. Once you get to the "icicle," head up canyon(east) past "ape index" slab following the base. Approximately 50-100 yards further you will see a shallow right facing dihedral. The slab with bolts just east is the start. The other approach heads up(east) the bike/hike trail turning right(south) 25 yards before a black pipe crosses the trail and before the secret garden bolders. Link "high school party areas" and trails crossing small streams, heading southeast up toward major talus. Where the talus meets a low toung of the cliff head down canyon(west) along the base until you see bolts.
P1. Climb good friction to an overlap and leftward traverse into a layaway flake. Finish with a bulge. 9 bolts. 90' 5.10+ P2. A bit contrived! Climb loose 4th class to the base of a 50' slab. Do 5 bolts and supplemental gear to the chains. 5.9- 110ish' (move the belay down and across the gully to a tree ledge, not disturbing "Pandora's Blocks") P3. From the tree ledge chimney behind a bolder and do mixed gear and bolts angling up and right thru roofs. A black alien takes the "sting" out below bolt 2. 80' 5.10+ P4. Do a couple bolts up the dihedral and move out and right angling to another crack system. Take this system thru the big roof. 80' 5.10+ brass helpful Decent. Rap the route w/ 60 meter.
P1. Climb good friction to an overlap and leftward traverse into a layaway flake. Finish with a bulge. 9 bolts. 90' 5.10+ P2. A bit contrived! Climb loose 4th class to the base of a 50' slab. Do 5 bolts and supplemental gear to the chains. 5.9- 110ish' (move the belay down and across the gully to a tree ledge, not disturbing "Pandora's Blocks") P3. From the tree ledge chimney behind a bolder and do mixed gear and bolts angling up and right thru roofs. A black alien takes the "sting" out below bolt 2. 80' 5.10+ P4. Do a couple bolts up the dihedral and move out and right angling to another crack system. Take this system thru the big roof. 80' 5.10+ brass helpful Decent. Rap the route w/ 60 meter.
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