Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: yes
Page Views: 2,190 total · 13/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Oct 16, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


This route is located between "The Great White Icicle" and "Pentapitch" area. There are two approaches. From pentapitch parking, take the Wasatch climbing guide description for the waterfall area. Once you get to the "icicle," head up canyon(east) past "ape index" slab following the base. Approximately 50-100 yards further you will see a shallow right facing dihedral. The slab with bolts just east is the start. The other approach heads up(east) the bike/hike trail turning right(south) 25 yards before a black pipe crosses the trail and before the secret garden bolders. Link "high school party areas" and trails crossing small streams, heading southeast up toward major talus. Where the talus meets a low toung of the cliff head down canyon(west) along the base until you see bolts.

P1. Climb good friction to an overlap and leftward traverse into a layaway flake. Finish with a bulge. 9 bolts. 90' 5.10+ P2. A bit contrived! Climb loose 4th class to the base of a 50' slab. Do 5 bolts and supplemental gear to the chains. 5.9- 110ish' (move the belay down and across the gully to a tree ledge, not disturbing "Pandora's Blocks") P3. From the tree ledge chimney behind a bolder and do mixed gear and bolts angling up and right thru roofs. A black alien takes the "sting" out below bolt 2. 80' 5.10+ P4. Do a couple bolts up the dihedral and move out and right angling to another crack system. Take this system thru the big roof. 80' 5.10+ brass helpful Decent. Rap the route w/ 60 meter.


1-2 sets tcu's (1 oo alien or grey tcu)camelots to #11 set brass nuts1 set nuts9 QDsbunch o long runners60 meter rope


Anonymous Coward
Anonymous Coward  
The Last rap is not off the P1 anchors but an independent set to the east. A 60 meter will not reach P1 anchors from P2!!! Oct 18, 2005
Anonymous Coward
Anonymous Coward  
how about a topo? sounds fun! Oct 19, 2005
Anonymous Coward
Anonymous Coward  
I climbed "Stifflers Mom" and then I did this route in the fall of 05. If "Stifflers" is getting three stars this should get 5! Dec 8, 2005
I heard the guys who did this route are famous French climbers named Jaques and Gerome and it only took them 2.5 hours to establish this route. Apr 27, 2006
No, they actually typify the American twenty something climber - they beg for food, but scoff if not organic, only smoke the finest, drive SUVs and get pissed off about gas prices, and complain about the cost of climbing gear while drinking $9 Lattes! Cheers gentlemen, I'm proud you... May 1, 2006
Very fine route! A must do!! Sep 5, 2008
anybody know who the FA party was/is? thx Jul 16, 2012
earl mcalister
Las Vegas, NV
earl mcalister   Las Vegas, NV
The 3rd to last bolt on pitch 2 has been flattened by rock fall. couldnt fit a nano biner through but was able to girth hitch a very thin spectra sling (smaller than mammut, which probably wont fit). The bolt is skippable as the next isnt too far away. This route bested my partner and I yesterday. I found it very difficult for .10+. Couldn't climb the first pitch clean at all, even on top rope. couldnt make it past 6th bolt (hard move left) but was able to sneak right around corner with g ear. we bailed at the 3rd bolt of the 3 rd pitch after I took a pendulum that sent me through a small tree. could not figure out beta here, whether you go straight up (very difficult) or traverse right. If someone knows the beta please pm me. I was stumped! twice as hard as stifflers. which I found casual in comparison. Sep 10, 2012
Ok, number 1, Im tired, John and I climbed this today, July 2,2017....I noticed the last post was 2012, I think that is the last time this was climbed. There was no evidence of any chalk, old beer bottles or blood on the route.
I agree, this seemed harder than block party rated 5-11-....I think it is at least that hard, I think there are two solid 5-11 moves on the climb P-1 the travers left. and Pitch 3 moving off the 2nd bolt. Otherwise, it is sustained 5-10d. When we got to the last pitch, I went up to the thin crack going up to the big roof...The whole tiny crack was filled with dirt with lots of little plants growing along the entire length. Lucky, I had a nut tool. I gardened for 15 or twenty minutes so I could get some pro in. It was scary leading that bit until I found a buried old pin half way up. Oh my, The roof had a pretty stiff but well protected moved but still got my attention..There is a good, hard, LCC old school feel to this climb. More people need to do this, while the crack is still clean. Enjoy.......Steve Jul 2, 2017