Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: yes
Page Views: 2,823 total · 13/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Oct 16, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


This route is located between "The Great White Icicle" and "Pentapitch" area. There are two approaches. From pentapitch parking, take the Wasatch climbing guide description for the waterfall area. Once you get to the "icicle," head up canyon(east) past "ape index" slab following the base. Approximately 50-100 yards further you will see a shallow right facing dihedral. The slab with bolts just east is the start. The other approach heads up(east) the bike/hike trail turning right(south) 25 yards before a black pipe crosses the trail and before the secret garden bolders. Link "high school party areas" and trails crossing small streams, heading southeast up toward major talus. Where the talus meets a low toung of the cliff head down canyon(west) along the base until you see bolts.

P1. Climb good friction to an overlap and leftward traverse into a layaway flake. Finish with a bulge. 9 bolts. 90' 5.10+ P2. A bit contrived! Climb loose 4th class to the base of a 50' slab. Do 5 bolts and supplemental gear to the chains. 5.9- 110ish' (move the belay down and across the gully to a tree ledge, not disturbing "Pandora's Blocks") P3. From the tree ledge chimney behind a bolder and do mixed gear and bolts angling up and right thru roofs. A black alien takes the "sting" out below bolt 2. 80' 5.10+ P4. Do a couple bolts up the dihedral and move out and right angling to another crack system. Take this system thru the big roof. 80' 5.10+ brass helpful Decent. Rap the route w/ 60 meter.


1-2 sets tcu's (1 oo alien or grey tcu)camelots to #11 set brass nuts1 set nuts9 QDsbunch o long runners60 meter rope