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Routes in Great White Icicle Area

A Pinch of Salt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ape Index T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Astair S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Block Party, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Daddy Long Legs T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dancing in the Moonlight T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Done and Dusted T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Evening Falls T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Genuflect Falls WI3+ R
Great White Icicle, The WI3
Master Scriptorian T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
More Funky Than Monkey T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Mountain Monkey Swing T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Pandora's Blocks T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Plain Kipper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
River's Edge, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Small Block S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Snow Slab T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tap N Stance T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Toe Shoes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Viet Cong Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Tony Calderone, and Wendy Lagerquist 1992
Page Views: 79 total · 1/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on May 16, 2006
Admins: Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description [Edit]

This climb starts like it's neighbors, as a hard to discern runout slab route. After the 1st belay though, things change (for the good). The first pitch climbs the far right side of the Snow Slab, using the thorn filled slot, stemming kept you out of their reach here. After the belay ledge, exit out left up the steep wall. Look for good steps up and out, to anice juggy finish. Clip the bolt, and wander left over the slab to a crack. Protect here and there, us you move up the narrowing crack, to a steeper slab. Find a tree, and belay. The steep section of climbing off the belay ledge is loose, so beware.
Crux move was getting on the slab after the roof and finishing the route. If you rap, aim for the anchors of Evening Falls, and rap again, and again.

Location [Edit]

Far right side of Snow Slab.

Protection [Edit]

one bolt on route, runners and small to medium gear for the route. There are no slings around trees anymore, so bring your own or downclimb and traverse to the midway anchors on Evening Falls. Helmets are mandatory.


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