Dancing in the Moonlight
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British R
Avg: 1.5 from 2 votes
Type: | Trad, 190 ft (58 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Tony Calderone, and Wendy Lagerquist 1992 |
Page Views: | 686 total · 3/month |
Shared By: | Nathan Fisher on May 16, 2006 |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
This climb starts like it's neighbors, as a hard to discern runout slab route. After the 1st belay though, things change (for the good). The first pitch climbs the far right side of the Snow Slab, using the thorn filled slot, stemming kept you out of their reach here. After the belay ledge, exit out left up the steep wall. Look for good steps up and out, to anice juggy finish. Clip the bolt, and wander left over the slab to a crack. Protect here and there, us you move up the narrowing crack, to a steeper slab. Find a tree, and belay. The steep section of climbing off the belay ledge is loose, so beware.
Crux move was getting on the slab after the roof and finishing the route. If you rap, aim for the anchors of Evening Falls, and rap again, and again.
Crux move was getting on the slab after the roof and finishing the route. If you rap, aim for the anchors of Evening Falls, and rap again, and again.
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