Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Mark Bennett and Bill Robins, 1985
Page Views: 1,127 total · 6/month
Shared By: Boissal . on Sep 9, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The only thing ape-ish about this line is its name and you won't need to be 6'4" with +12 ape index to enjoy a good slabbing time.

Start in a faint broken dihedral and gingerly work up to the first bolt avoiding suspect flakes and patches of dirt. A couple small pieces here and there ease the mind until you can clip the first button head. From there, a couple touchy slab moves and crystal pinches bring you to a faint dike and better holds. Clip the 2nd bolt and start shuffling up and left along increasingly filthy flakes. A last bit of slabby trickery brings you to the chains.

Slightly runout but easy at the start, a bit unnerving at the crux if you haven't backed up the button heads. Creative gear placements protect the top.

Location Suggest change

Follow the approach to the Great White Icicle Area. Hike East along the buttress toward the Icicle. Traverse the boulder-strewn gully, cross a curtain of trees and you'll find yourself at the base of a smooth looking slab that is home to 3 good slab routes. Ape Index is the westernmost line sporting 2 widely spaced bolts.

Protection Suggest change

2 sad looking 1/4" button heads.
Micronuts and small cams (up to BD .4) are useful on the way up to the first bolt and can be used to back up the fixed hardware.
Traverse left to the anchors of the other bolted slab route (not in the book, left of Old Unknown) and rap or lower.

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