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Routes in Great White Icicle Area

A Pinch of Salt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ape Index T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Astair S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Block Party, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Daddy Long Legs T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dancing in the Moonlight T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Done and Dusted T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Evening Falls T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Genuflect Falls WI3+ R
Great White Icicle, The WI3
Master Scriptorian T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
More Funky Than Monkey T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Mountain Monkey Swing T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Pandora's Blocks T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Plain Kipper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
River's Edge, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Small Block S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Snow Slab T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tap N Stance T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Toe Shoes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Viet Cong Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Mark Bennett and Bill Robins, 1985
Page Views: 458 total · 4/month
Shared By: Boissal - on Sep 9, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


The only thing ape-ish about this line is its name and you won't need to be 6'4" with +12 ape index to enjoy a good slabbing time.

Start in a faint broken dihedral and gingerly work up to the first bolt avoiding suspect flakes and patches of dirt. A couple small pieces here and there ease the mind until you can clip the first button head. From there, a couple touchy slab moves and crystal pinches bring you to a faint dike and better holds. Clip the 2nd bolt and start shuffling up and left along increasingly filthy flakes. A last bit of slabby trickery brings you to the chains.

Slightly runout but easy at the start, a bit unnerving at the crux if you haven't backed up the button heads. Creative gear placements protect the top.


Follow the approach to the Great White Icicle Area. Hike East along the buttress toward the Icicle. Traverse the boulder-strewn gully, cross a curtain of trees and you'll find yourself at the base of a smooth looking slab that is home to 3 good slab routes. Ape Index is the westernmost line sporting 2 widely spaced bolts.


2 sad looking 1/4" button heads.
Micronuts and small cams (up to BD .4) are useful on the way up to the first bolt and can be used to back up the fixed hardware.
Traverse left to the anchors of the other bolted slab route (not in the book, left of Old Unknown) and rap or lower.


- No Photos -
Burr and I did this the other day; 10+ for sure, a bit squeezed with the line to its right, though. S Sep 13, 2009
Salt Lake City
Shaft   Salt Lake City
Thought this was easier than Stuck a flute in my, maybe because a long reach makes it more straightforward. Exciting getting to the 2nd buttonhead, backup those bolts.... Sep 13, 2009

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