Avg: 2 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft (24 m)|
|FA:||Mark Bennett and Bill Robins, 1985|
|Page Views:||773 total · 5/month|
|Shared By:||Boissal . on Sep 9, 2009|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Start in a faint broken dihedral and gingerly work up to the first bolt avoiding suspect flakes and patches of dirt. A couple small pieces here and there ease the mind until you can clip the first button head. From there, a couple touchy slab moves and crystal pinches bring you to a faint dike and better holds. Clip the 2nd bolt and start shuffling up and left along increasingly filthy flakes. A last bit of slabby trickery brings you to the chains.
Slightly runout but easy at the start, a bit unnerving at the crux if you haven't backed up the button heads. Creative gear placements protect the top.