Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Kent Wheeler, Rush Bowers, Chris Begue, 1988
Page Views: 754 total · 5/month
Shared By: Pete Spri on Jun 24, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route

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Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is a slab route that runs past 3 bolts, a pin, then a final bolt. The crux is getting from the 3rd bolt to the pin. All of the bolts are old 1/4", except the one right below the crux which has been upgraded to a nice 3/8" bolt.

The crux is a diagonaling finger tips crack (flared) on slabby feet. This route had enough other features to make it a fun slab route, and worth doing. More ascents would help clean the route up a little more.

Location Suggest change

To get to this route, you can either hike to it by going right at the base of the GWI slabs. This is about 30m uphill from the base of Daddy Long Legs. You can also get to this from the bolts atop the second pitch of Daddy Long Legs. Simply rap to the base of the slabs that are off to the right of this belay/rap station. This route is just left of Toe Shoes, which is also located on this slab.

This makes a great finish after having completed the DLL to Evening Falls route. Rap off, then lead this pitch.

Protection Suggest change

You may want a small nut (or a larger micro nut) to protect after the pin. A 00 grey TCU at the start can help you mentally get to the first bolt. 3 bolts, then a pin, and finally one more bolt to anchors. Can rap with a single 50m.