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Routes in Great White Icicle Area

A Pinch of Salt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ape Index T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Astair S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Block Party, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Daddy Long Legs T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dancing in the Moonlight T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Done and Dusted T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Evening Falls T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Genuflect Falls WI3+ R
Great White Icicle, The WI3
Grinning Gibbons T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Master Scriptorian T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
More Funky Than Monkey T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Mountain Monkey Swing T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Pandora's Blocks T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Plain Kipper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
River's Edge, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Small Block S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Snow Slab T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tap N Stance T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Toe Shoes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Viet Cong Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Kent Wheeler, Rush Bowers, Chris Begue, 1988
Page Views: 91 total · 1/month
Shared By: Pete Spri on Jun 24, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


This is a slab route that runs past 3 bolts, a pin, then a final bolt. The crux is getting from the 3rd bolt to the pin. All of the bolts are old 1/4", except the one right below the crux which has been upgraded to a nice 3/8" bolt.

The crux is a diagonaling finger tips crack (flared) on slabby feet. This route had enough other features to make it a fun slab route, and worth doing. More ascents would help clean the route up a little more.


To get to this route, you can either hike to it by going right at the base of the GWI slabs. This is about 30m uphill from the base of Daddy Long Legs. You can also get to this from the bolts atop the second pitch of Daddy Long Legs. Simply rap to the base of the slabs that are off to the right of this belay/rap station. This route is just left of Toe Shoes, which is also located on this slab.

This makes a great finish after having completed the DLL to Evening Falls route. Rap off, then lead this pitch.


You may want a small nut (or a larger micro nut) to protect after the pin. A 00 grey TCU at the start can help you mentally get to the first bolt. 3 bolts, then a pin, and finally one more bolt to anchors. Can rap with a single 50m.


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