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Routes in Great White Icicle Area

A Pinch of Salt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ape Index T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Astair S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Block Party, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Daddy Long Legs T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dancing in the Moonlight T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Done and Dusted T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Evening Falls T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Genuflect Falls WI3+ R
Great White Icicle, The WI3
Master Scriptorian T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
More Funky Than Monkey T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Mountain Monkey Swing T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Pandora's Blocks T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Plain Kipper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
River's Edge, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Small Block S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Snow Slab T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tap N Stance T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Toe Shoes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Viet Cong Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: Chris Begue and Dirsten Davis (1988)
Page Views: 1,487 total, 10/month
Shared By: Erin Chamberlain on Jul 26, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

From the top of the second pitch of Daddy Long Legs, angle up and right on the slab. Follow the bolt line slightly left and then head for the crack to the right which leads to the large tree.

The guide book notes that there are two bolts for a rappel station at the tree, but the rappel station is simply webbing around the tree. Bring some webbing in case the ones up there look suspect. Rappel down to the double bolts on the route. It might be good to have some extra webbing at the bolts also. Rappel from the bolts to the top of the second pitch of Daddy Long Legs where there are rap rings. From there rappel down the 11's to the bushy gully.

Protection

This climb protects with a pin and six bolts on the slab and with a regular rack in the crack at the top of the climb.

Photos

KG
SLC, UT
  5.10b PG13
KG   SLC, UT
  5.10b PG13
Very engaging lead for sure. Fun moves on good granite. I would say that this route is PG-13 given the fall potential before getting to the rap anchors halfway up the pitch, and the fall potential before gaining the ledge to the crack.

Overall good route! Must do if you are on top of Daddy Long Legs. Jun 25, 2017
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
The upper crack climbed well and clean the other day. Yes there is some foliage, but does it detract from the experience? I think not. The jams are free of the greenery which is what matters. Excellent pitch! Jun 3, 2012
Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
There are still two pins on this route, both of which look to be from the mid-16th century.

The crack at the top is pretty vegetated and not that great. Crux follows the last bolt. Jun 24, 2011
triznuty
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
Would be a classic in it's own if the crack gets cleaned up.. Excellent slab moves with good crack climbing thrown in. Didn't find any pins to clip though. Bolts and gear only. Link with DLL and you got a classic for sure! Jul 29, 2009
I thought this was a nice pitch. As of June 2008 it seems like all but one bolt has been replaced and the belay anchors as well. Don't know who did it, but thanks. Jun 25, 2008
Nathan Fisher
  5.10a R
Nathan Fisher  
  5.10a R
A very fun route that needs to have its bolts replaced. Of the 6 bolts, 2 are a midway anchor. I felt this was runout after the last bolt, but before the crack. The crack adds a nice change of pace to a good slab route. May 13, 2006
Erin Chamberlain
  5.10a
Erin Chamberlain  
  5.10a
The third bolt is a 1/4" and didn't look that good to me, but there is a nice crack just to the left which protects well. Jul 30, 2005