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Routes in Great White Icicle Area

A Pinch of Salt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ape Index T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Astair S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Block Party, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Daddy Long Legs T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dancing in the Moonlight T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Done and Dusted T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Evening Falls T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Genuflect Falls WI3+ R
Great White Icicle, The WI3
Master Scriptorian T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
More Funky Than Monkey T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Mountain Monkey Swing T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Pandora's Blocks T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Plain Kipper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
River's Edge, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Small Block S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Snow Slab T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tap N Stance T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Toe Shoes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Viet Cong Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Andy Ross & Gene Vallee
Page Views: 102 total, 2/month
Shared By: apross on Sep 25, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Place a good piece from the ground then layback up the left edge of the buttress to and past the first bolt. Some easier climbing over dusty roofs (long slings helpfull on gear through here) brings you to the crux.
Tricky face climbing left of two bolts leads to a right leaning ramp (this is where it joins Monkey Talk) passing a peg to bolt anchor.
Not much to look at but has a lot of good climbing on it.

Location

Starts 30ft right of The Great White Icicle and just left of Monkey Talk.

Protection

Cams to 3" and set of wires.
Keep a Blue, Purple TCU and hand piece for gear past the 2 bolt face crux.
A 60m rope JUST makes it down, watch the ends!

Photos

Andy Jacobsen
  5.11-
Andy Jacobsen  
  5.11-
Fun route that could use some traffic to clean up. Don't be deterred, the crux moves are on great rock. Do it! Oct 23, 2012