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Unknown Flake (Back To School)
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 2 from 13
votes
Routes in Sabbatical Wall
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Acid Nap T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Baby Fat T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Big V, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Bon Voyage T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Broken Dreams T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Caesarean T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Catch yer Own Train T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cherry Popper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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De-Birth T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Decreation T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Double Time T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dust Lung T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Finger Fun T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Frost on The Pumpkin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gender Reveal Party T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Genetics T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Holiday Pay T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Humping Action T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Immaculate Conception T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Induced Labor T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Lichen Vacation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Marital Bliss T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Minute Man T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Miscarriage T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Mother T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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My Son is a Perv! T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Out of State Plates T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Pregnant Woman Grazing T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Prenup T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Reincarnation T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Sabbatical 36 T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Sabbatical Wall | 1828 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Sabbatical Wall | 9619 T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Shotgun Wedding T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Sperm Bank T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Stem Cell T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Toss, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown 10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unknown D.F. Route (Fiesta?) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown Flake (Back To School) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Womb, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Workin' Man T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Trad, 35 ft (11 m) |
| GPS: | 38.02086, -109.58064 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,068 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Apr 21, 2008 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities!
Details
Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
A slightly harder short route- starting off with jamming and ending in an open-book layback. The crux is probably coming out of the wide-finger layback and getting into the crack above on poor feet. Good rock, good moves, but too short to be satisfying.
Location
perhaps 50 meters right of the Sabbatical corner, and 15 meters right of the 'Unknown D.F. Route' there is a very obtuse corner formed by a flake against the wall. This is wide down low with a small crack in it, and narrow up top. A set of black slings hangs in a pin/bolt anchor above and is easily seem from the right of the route, but not from below.
Protection
Good gear, but hard to place up high due to position and angle- the flake takes gear from .5" to 2", mostly in the finger size up high, and ascends to a sling and ring anchor on a bolt and pin. The PG-13 rating here reflects a subjective danger to inexperienced leaders who might have difficulty sizing blind pro in an open book layback or placing properly and deeply enough to be safe in a thin flake.
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