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Routes in Sabbatical Wall

Baby Fat T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Big V, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bon Voyage T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Broken Dreams T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Coat Hanger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
De-Birth T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Decreation T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dust Lung T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Finger Fun T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Genetics T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Immaculate Conception T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Induced Labor T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Minute Man T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Miscarriage T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mother T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
My Son is a Perv! T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Reincarnation T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Sabbatical 36 T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Shotgun Wedding T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sperm Bank T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stillborn T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Toss, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown D.F. Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Womb, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Workin' Man T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Dylan Warren
Page Views: 648 total, 6/month
Shared By: e Dixon on Sep 25, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Right-facing corner running up a prominent left-angling slope feature. Funky rock at the start (2 drilled pins) gives way to a nice, low-angle finger crack.

Guidebook mentions a 5.11 second pitch. The rock looks ???, but I didn't do it, so I don't know.

Location

About 100' to the right of Sabbatical 36

Protection

Green - Yellow Aliens for the corner and whatever you want to supplement the two pins.

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FA, Dylan Warren.. To bad P2 seems to be plagued with vegetation. still worth doing. Another impressive onsight from Dylan.. P1 is stellar ramping fingers... Sep 4, 2014
Sarah.E
Durango, CO
Sarah.E   Durango, CO
What the what? Nov 25, 2012
Devin Fin
DURANGO
Devin Fin   DURANGO
weeeee what a climb small gear net moves .. the hard persons bunny slope . loved this climb not yer plug an suffer fest the creek is.... a lil bush at the top almost sent me on a log role..ha ha ha Nov 11, 2012
Princess Mia
Vail
  5.11b
Princess Mia   Vail
  5.11b
This is a two pitch climb and it is accurately rated at 5.11!!!

Pitch one -- 35 meters -- 5.10 -- excellent finger crack. The beginning protects with two pitons and one can add a couple of purple TCUs. Many blue and yellow TCUs are needed. TCUs fit better than quad cams, but a couple of BD 0.3-0.4 are useful. Fat bolts with stainless steal rings at the anchor.

Pitch two -- 40 meters - 5.11 -- excellent finger crack, but it turns to tips in a couple of short sections, the rack from pitch one works well (providing you bring a few purple TCUs). No extra gear is needed. Two excellent Metolius rap bolts.

We just cleaned a bunch of vegetation on the route and removed a few loose rocks. It is a super fun climb when you are just jonesing to do finger cracks. Bring a nut tool if you like to do a bit more crack cleaning..... Jun 12, 2012
Mike Munger
Boulder, Colorado
 
Mike Munger   Boulder, Colorado
 
The tips crack on the upper half of the first pitch is quite enjoyable but when combine with the loose rock and poor protection between the two drilled pins on the first half I can only give it a couple of stars and I didn't do the second pitch either so I can't comment on it. Oct 21, 2011