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Routes in Sabbatical Wall

Baby Fat T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Big V, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bon Voyage T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Broken Dreams T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Coat Hanger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
De-Birth T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Decreation T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dust Lung T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Finger Fun T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Genetics T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Immaculate Conception T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Induced Labor T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Minute Man T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Miscarriage T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mother T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
My Son is a Perv! T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Reincarnation T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Sabbatical 36 T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Shotgun Wedding T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sperm Bank T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stillborn T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Toss, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown D.F. Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Womb, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Workin' Man T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Kingsbury
Page Views: 1,369 total, 26/month
Shared By: Patrick Kingsbury on Jul 23, 2013
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Starts with a traverse in at a horizontal to a knee bar section, protected by a bolt and then a super thin splitter with face features to the anchor. Run out at top for the last 15 feet or so.

Location

Just left of Immaculate Conception

Protection

Mostly black and blue aliens, a yellow C3, a yellow alien and a #3 BD at the start.

Photos

Nate, I originally aided the line and did use 2 pins towards the top to get the anchor where I wanted it. I removed the pins before the free lead, the day i aided it (pic above, no chalk), but did rehearse it quite abit on top rope. The slight run out where the pins were isn't the crux.

I did leave some pins on "Still Life", and one on "Decreation" further down the wall, that I did clip for the send though.

Glad you're psyched on some of these line's Hayden! Jul 14, 2015
Nate Sydnor   Moab
I heard through the grapevine that the first free ascent of this route was done with fixed pins in place in the upper crack, which were then removed after the lead. Not that it particularly matters, but I'd be interested to know if there's any truth to that. Jul 7, 2015
Thanks Pat for a really cool route, you have a good eye for these "new-school" routes. Just after the bolt I found that the yellow BD X4 worked super well, other than that the gear beta is right on. Mar 17, 2015