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Routes in Sabbatical Wall

Baby Fat T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Big V, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bon Voyage T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Broken Dreams T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Coat Hanger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
De-Birth T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Decreation T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dust Lung T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Finger Fun T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Genetics T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Immaculate Conception T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Induced Labor T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Minute Man T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Miscarriage T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mother T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
My Son is a Perv! T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Reincarnation T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Sabbatical 36 T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Shotgun Wedding T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sperm Bank T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stillborn T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Toss, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown D.F. Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Womb, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Workin' Man T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: Dylan Warren
Page Views: 899 total, 8/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 22, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Clean moves on clean rock. Thin hands to thinner than that. Small people will find both the jamming and slot contortions easier than big people. Start in a left-facing corner with 1.5" gear (easier than it looks) and climb up into a flaring slot with 'forever' of thin hands jams to a wide spot. Pull the wide section to a good rest and finish up top in a 1.5" crack that is harder than it looks. Finish and clip before you run out of gas!

Location

Left a good ways from the approach trail and beyond a HUGE right-facing corner that forms an entire section of wall. There is a small plaque at the base, but it is still easy to walk right past this climb and not notice it until you reach 'Workin Man (11-)' and look back 40 meters into the obvious dark corner.

Protection

Lots of cams from 1.5" to 2.5" with emphasis on 2". Take a #4 friend or larger equivalent for a middle section that is wide and save some thin cams for the tea-cups up top.

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Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
Thin pieces for tea cups? Apr 2, 2015
FA. Dylan Warren. A fantastic route that should not be missed while visiting this wall! Sep 4, 2014
Devin Fin
DURANGO
Devin Fin   DURANGO
this thing is 5 stars all day crisp fun OW half way up..... find yer way to this climb an rock it .. i think this is the best 1.5 2.0 inch crack in the creek !!!! an that's a mouth full Nov 11, 2012