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Routes in Sabbatical Wall

Baby Fat T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Big V, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bon Voyage T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Broken Dreams T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Coat Hanger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
De-Birth T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Decreation T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dust Lung T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Finger Fun T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Genetics T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Immaculate Conception T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Induced Labor T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Minute Man T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Miscarriage T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mother T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
My Son is a Perv! T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Reincarnation T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Sabbatical 36 T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Shotgun Wedding T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sperm Bank T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stillborn T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Toss, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown D.F. Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Womb, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Workin' Man T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 438 total, 6/month
Shared By: Michael Pang on Apr 11, 2012
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The short tips/fingercrack just to the left of The Womb. Looks a lot harder than it is. Lots of feet. Starting from the top of the large shelf, pull up into an awkward flare, then a couple of good fingerlocks to gain the crux. The crux is short and involves a few hard pulls on tips locks to gain the huge handrail. Then easy moves to the anchor.

The plaque doesn't give a rating but Troutman says the first ascensionist gave it 5.12-. Feels easier than that, unless the upper handrails are off limits, in which case this route would be significantly harder. Regardless, it's a fun, short climb that protects well with small gear.

Location

Fairly obvious to spot, there is a large plaque that says "Minute Man" at the base of the climb. You can start by climbing the obvious thin hands crack to get on top of the large shelf or you can bypass the thin hands and access the top of the shelf from the left. The business starts from the shelf.

Protection

Thin gear, from #0(green) to #2(yellow) C3's. Mostly green C3's. #0(purple) Metolius also work well if you don't have enough green C3's.

Photos

Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
packs quite a whoopin for being so short. 11+/12- maybe? Mar 19, 2015
slim

  5.11d
slim    
  5.11d
really cool opportunity to climb a desert route on small gear at a reasonable grade. wish there were more like it! Apr 11, 2012