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Routes in Sabbatical Wall
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Acid Nap T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Baby Fat T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Big V, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Bon Voyage T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Broken Dreams T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Caesarean T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Catch yer Own Train T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cherry Popper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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De-Birth T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Decreation T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Double Time T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dust Lung T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Finger Fun T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Frost on The Pumpkin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gender Reveal Party T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Genetics T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Holiday Pay T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Humping Action T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Immaculate Conception T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Induced Labor T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Lichen Vacation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Marital Bliss T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Minute Man T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Miscarriage T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Mother T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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My Son is a Perv! T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Out of State Plates T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Pregnant Woman Grazing T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Prenup T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Reincarnation T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Sabbatical 36 T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Sabbatical Wall | 1828 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Sabbatical Wall | 9619 T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Shotgun Wedding T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Sperm Bank T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Stem Cell T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Toss, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown 10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unknown D.F. Route (Fiesta?) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown Flake (Back To School) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Womb, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Workin' Man T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Trad, 130 ft (39 m) |
| GPS: | 38.02086, -109.58064 |
| FA: | Trevor Bowman and Emily Reinsel 4/7/14 |
| Page Views: | 971 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Trevor Bowman on Aug 12, 2014 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! Raptor Closures!
Details
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
The initial right-facing corner is the crux, with fingers/tips/stemming on somewhat dirty rock to a shelf at 25'. This lower bit used to sport a towering pillar of stacked blocks, which were trundled to reveal the current start. Eons of dirt were caked behind these blocks, and although much was cleaned off, it remains dirty. It may clean up more with wind/water, but will probably need more traffic cleaning too.
From the shelf, commit to a steep squeeze that necks down to cups as you pull out of the apex. A short stretch of fists leads to a glorious cups splitter with stemming into the crack-less corner immediately to the right. Finish with fists in a flare and a lower-angled offwidth to an anchor ledge. The whole upper section of the route offers varied, physical climbing on great varnished stone. It makes up for the lower bit in my mind, but I guess I don't mind an "entrance fee" as much as some...
By pushing the route to the logical stance at the system's end, I unintentionally created a 40m lead. I apologize for the need for two ropes, as I prefer the convenience of one-rope routes as much as anyone!
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