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Routes in Sabbatical Wall

Baby Fat T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Big V, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bon Voyage T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Broken Dreams T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Coat Hanger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
De-Birth T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Decreation T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dust Lung T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Finger Fun T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Genetics T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Immaculate Conception T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Induced Labor T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Minute Man T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Miscarriage T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mother T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
My Son is a Perv! T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Reincarnation T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Sabbatical 36 T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Shotgun Wedding T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sperm Bank T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stillborn T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Toss, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown D.F. Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Womb, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Workin' Man T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Trevor Bowman and Emily Reinsel 4/7/14
Page Views: 205 total, 5/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Aug 12, 2014
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The initial right-facing corner is the crux, with fingers/tips/stemming on somewhat dirty rock to a shelf at 25'. This lower bit used to sport a towering pillar of stacked blocks, which were trundled to reveal the current start. Eons of dirt were caked behind these blocks, and although much was cleaned off, it remains dirty. It may clean up more with wind/water, but will probably need more traffic cleaning too.

From the shelf, commit to a steep squeeze that necks down to cups as you pull out of the apex. A short stretch of fists leads to a glorious cups splitter with stemming into the crack-less corner immediately to the right. Finish with fists in a flare and a lower-angled offwidth to an anchor ledge. The whole upper section of the route offers varied, physical climbing on great varnished stone. It makes up for the lower bit in my mind, but I guess I don't mind an "entrance fee" as much as some...

By pushing the route to the logical stance at the system's end, I unintentionally created a 40m lead. I apologize for the need for two ropes, as I prefer the convenience of one-rope routes as much as anyone!

Location

Way out right, a couple hundred meters past Sabbatical 36 and a short distance past (through boulder tunnel against base of wall) a cluster of 30' routes. Take the right-hand approach trail, that leads up to the Sabbatical 36 area.

Protection

(1X).2 (2X).3 (1X).4,.5 (2X).75,1 (1X)2 (4X)3 (1X)4,5 (2X)6 BD Camalot sizes, chain/cold shut anchor.

Photos

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