Type: Trad, 155 ft (47 m)
FA: Karl Kelley
Page Views: 2,578 total · 17/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 21, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: No Toilet Facilities! Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas - In Effect Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

A good climb with a few harder moves between rests and sustained sections. The particular area of difficulty will be dependent upon height, hand-size, skill, etc... In essence, YMMV.
But what will be universal is enjoyment of the route. The long corner offers a little of everything from fingers to OW, though the sections where the crack is anything other than perfect hands to wide cups are short.

The start is thin with softer rock and some delicate stemming holds, place gear despite the rather easy climbing. (thin or a #3 friend) then get up to the main crack and run from rest to rest. There are a great deal of no-hands-rest opportunities with stems, knee locks and ledges that make this a great climb for folks entering into this level of difficulty.

Location

From the approach trail, look up and left slightly to an obvious long, right-facing dihedral with a set of hard-to-see anchors way way up top.

Protection

Cams from fingers to the biggest one you have. A few small for the bottom, then #3 camalots for a long way with a 3.5 or #4-C4, then a wide piece on a sling, then back to #3 camalots until the crack goes to 'perfect hands' up top, 2.5-3" before a single smaller piece and the anchors.

Photos