Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: D.Finucane
Page Views: 825 total · 6/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 21, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

A short route with a short crux. This climb ascends a few moves up to a shelf, then jams loose hands to step up onto a square flat stance near the crack, the route's crux. Distinct rest stances are key opportunities for protection before the crux and other opportunities are from pretty good stances.
An excellent beginner lead. A neophyte leader would never be far from the ground, protection, or a watchful belayer.

Location

About 20 meters right of Sabbatical there is an obvious crack and corner system with a ~3" crack and a right-facing corner crux. A plaque at the base reads: "D.F. 5.10" but the route is easier than 5.10.

Protection

A few 2.3-3.5" cams are the meat of it. More may be desired, but since the whole route can be seen from the ground, there is no problem determining what gear any individual might need.

Photos