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Routes in Sabbatical Wall

Baby Fat T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Big V, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bon Voyage T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Broken Dreams T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Coat Hanger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
De-Birth T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Decreation T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dust Lung T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Finger Fun T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Genetics T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Immaculate Conception T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Induced Labor T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Minute Man T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Miscarriage T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mother T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
My Son is a Perv! T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Reincarnation T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Sabbatical 36 T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Shotgun Wedding T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sperm Bank T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stillborn T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Toss, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown D.F. Route (Fiesta?) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown Flake (Back To School) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Womb, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Workin' Man T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: Trad, 105 ft
FA: P. Kingsbury, Alf. spring '09
Page Views: 1,233 total · 11/month
Shared By: TomKingsbury on May 21, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The route goes from a 24" crack down to 1/4" at the top. All sizes covered from squeeze to stacks down to tight fingers up high. The fingers is the crux, although exiting the squeeze is also hard.

Location

a few systems right of 'pregnant woman grazing' and just left of 'Birth'

Protection

green alien through blue big bro. fixed pin protecting the exit from the squeeze. clip and lower up top.

Photos

TomKingsbury
  5.12
TomKingsbury  
  5.12
The fixed pin was installed after two lead attempts with out it....

The gear is pretty much non-existent due to the flairing nature of the crack. A ground fall would pretty much be guaranteed if one botched the transition from the squeeze with out the pin.

-Patrick May 21, 2009
Ray Lovestead
Boulder, CO
  5.12-
Ray Lovestead   Boulder, CO
  5.12-
Can be easily T/R'd by moving your rope from the top of Debirth. The bottom would be quite scary without some super big gear. Well done Pat. Apr 11, 2017
Patrick Kingsbury
Anthem, AZ
 
Patrick Kingsbury   Anthem, AZ
 
^^^ top rope down grade? Haha. As far as i know only HK has repeated it. Psyched you got on it and liked it! I used a single blue tube before the pin. Jul 21, 2017
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
I have a mission; to only downgrade, on TR, Pat's routes. No Pat route is safe. The downgrading will be egregious and rampant. Jul 22, 2017

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