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Routes in Main Wall

Bad Santa S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Common Wealth S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Community Service S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ecstatic Electricity S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fish, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
For the People S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Four Play S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
I Been Robbed S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Last Lonely Eagle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Litheon Flux S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Lugee Head S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Massive Headwound Harry S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Send It S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Short Vacation S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stealin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Three Sheets To The Wind S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Triple Header S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Triple Play T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown (Left of I Been Robbed) S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown (Right of Four Play) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown (Right of Triple Play) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 5.6 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unnamed Mixed Route T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Valentine Arete S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Valentine Corner T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Welcome to Milagrosa S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Where the Buffalo Roam S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wizard, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: NA
Page Views: 1,448 total, 12/month
Shared By: Christian on Dec 25, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

5.9 layback crack then bolted face up top. Face is probably 10a if you go right for a rest and 10b if you go straight up.

Location

Crack + face directly to the right of "Community Service". Route #4 on the topo on the main page.

Protection

Nuts & Cams for bottom crack & start of top section, then bolts.

Photos

Christian
Casa do Cacete
 
Christian   Casa do Cacete
 
Since this climb is popular w beginning trad leaders and I'm pretty sure the first piece is a stopper (for whatever reason, it's hard to get a cam in the same spot), a word of advice: Don't allow your belayer to stand 10 feet back from the wall when belaying on this.

The further out he/she stands, the greater the chance of bottom-up zippering that first piece if you fall after placing a second piece, at which point you'll be relying on one piece to keep you off the ground. Dec 28, 2014
David Lammers
Grand Junction, CO
 
David Lammers   Grand Junction, CO
 
The largest piece that the crack can take is a #2 BD cam in a pocket near the top of the crack. Leave anything larger in your car and save the weight if this is the only mixed route you do. Apr 4, 2010
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
  5.10
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
  5.10
sweet crack. i wish it was longer. Dec 16, 2008
joshf
missoula, mt
 
joshf   missoula, mt
 
The move off of the ledge is protected by a crack going through very soft rock. It is probably a good idea to bring a couple cams in the .75 camalot range and equalize them before committing to the .9ish move. Apr 21, 2008
Christian
Casa do Cacete
 
Christian   Casa do Cacete
 
Maybe one of the admins can move or copy Josh's pic of this route from the main page to this page.

Thanks Dec 25, 2007