Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Mark Sprague
Page Views: 18,050 total · 131/month
Shared By: seth hamel on Aug 19, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

As you approach the Hinterlands, Giant Man is off to the right in the little alcove up the hill. It is a very recognizable route, dominant and steep, bulging over the top of a 55 or so foot slab. The slab section is 5.7, enjoyable, following a neat-looking dike that tapers the further up you get.

Pull up onto the steep after clipping the anchors for the .7 and pull on the biggest jugs that could ever exist for about four or so moves. The mid-section is where it starts to get harder, traverse left a couple of moves (while realizing that there's a lot of exposure up here). Pulling up out of the steepest part of the route is grunty, and finish up on a couple of more technical moves. It is a beautiful route.

Protection

Bring a sling for the anchors right below the beginning of the overhang. A couple of times I have led the slab, cleaned the draws while being belayed down, and then starting from there and going to the top. To me it was worth it to avoid the rope drag. 16 Bolts. Quick clips at the top.
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12b/c
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12b/c
here is some video footage of me sending this amazing climb and the victory whipper afterwards...
youtube.com/watch?v=DzC6wll… Apr 13, 2010
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Nice going, Lee. Congrats. I liked the sound of the water in the background Apr 13, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12b/c
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12b/c
thanks for putting it up mark! its a true rumney classic! Apr 13, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12b/c
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12b/c
i just noticed that it cut off the last 2 moves! that sucks... i love those moves... Apr 13, 2010
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
I was going to razz you on that: sure your foot didn't slip on the last move? Apr 13, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12b/c
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12b/c
ok here is a new edit with uncut beta footage (ie the last moves arent missing)....and... bonus.... it has a bad ass soundtrack!!!
youtube.com/watch?v=WmLYnyb… Apr 13, 2010
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
If anyone was wondering, I got the name from an NPR story while driving up from Rhode Island for the weekend. It was about 2 students at Tufts (or maybe Dartmouth) who went around with one on the others shoulders and a blanket around to look like one person, Giantman, throwing gold coins (butterscotch candies) to people and giving speeches in a big booming voice. Apparently, it became quite a tradition for years and they drew a crowd. Apr 14, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12b/c
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12b/c
nice mark! i always wondered about that... Apr 14, 2010
S. Neoh  
Forgive me if this a dumb question - are there perma-draws up on the steep section of Giant Man? If so, how many? One of the photos shows a long sling hanging from one of the anchors. Is it a perma-sling?
Thanks! Aug 3, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12b/c
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12b/c
yeah the steep stuff is all fixed slings.... the long sling on the anchor is very helpful for working the route but i didnt clip it on the redpoint... Aug 3, 2010
bradley white   Bend
Awe inspiring climb! Jun 11, 2012
Dom
New Brunswick Canada
 
Dom   New Brunswick Canada  
 
Hey What's the deal with the monster detached jug just beneath the second to last bolt? Has it been reinforced? Seems terribly hollow and that would certainly be a widow maker if it came down...

Nice route, the crux is definitely getting to the jug just above the anchor. The rest is 5.11 except maybe for one small easier crux in the middle. Oct 12, 2012
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
You shouldn't be getting any bad rope drag as long as you use a long sling at the Cold Feet anchor. There is no need to do a bunch of back cleaning.

If there are fixed draws on this, please double check that they are not worn with sharp edges, and don't hesitate to remove them if they are, even if you can't replace them. Nov 27, 2012
irujo
 
irujo  
 
Now equipped with perma draws with help from Mike Lincoln! Some nasty and sharp draws were left up there... scary Apr 27, 2015
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
I think perma draws are the stupidist thing EVER..period Apr 28, 2015
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Ah, but we haven't seen you on overhanging 'Orangahang' lately, John, which cuts your rope if you try to clean it by seconding or tramming, nor the other routes with similar issues or potential traffic jams if people are creating CFs cleaning routes that cross others or share sections ;) I do tend to agree that they are highly overused though and need to be cleaned up more often. I saw the permas they put up and they are grey sleeved cable with steel biners, a vast improvement over ratty nylon 'project' slings with sharp biners. I appreciate the effort. I believe when the new FS Rumney Climbing Management Plan is announced it will probably address them (no more info- awaiting announcement from RCA and FS)

More non-Giantman specific discussion is probably better taken to the Eastern States section of the forum. Apr 28, 2015
irujo
 
irujo  
 
John, there is room on those bolts for you to clip your own draws. May 1, 2015
Zach Swanson
Newton, MA
Zach Swanson   Newton, MA
Is the loose jug near the 2nd draw new or always been there? There's plenty of options for jugs at that point, but the loose one is really, really easy to grab from below and only has a light 'x' chalked off to one side that isn't noticeable until you're above it. It seemed ok as long as you only pulled down, but the entire block (3-4 feet long?) shifted out nearly an inch when I tugged lightly on it.

If you look at this photo - mountainproject.com/v/10636… it is the hold that the climber actually has in his right hand. There's a jug above and below it, so you can completely skip the loose block as long as you know about it. Aug 10, 2015
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
It must have loosened up. I don't tend to leave loose stuff when I prep routes unless they are completely chocked in, which I think is kind of cool. If there are good alternatives and it isn't an especially aesthetic hold it should probably be removed, when it can be done safely. Aug 12, 2015
Tyler Rohr 2
Cambridge, MA
 
Tyler Rohr 2   Cambridge, MA
 
The block in question in the prior two comments (Right hand: mountainproject.com/v/10636…) has been safely removed (as of April 25, 2016)

It was littered with 'x's' but to the point that they all covered each other and could be confused for an abundance of chalk. It was incredibly loose and horrifyingly easy to remove. We tried to clean at out all the various little rocks from where it was wedged in as well but climbers should be careful around here regardless.

The quality/difficulty of the route is unchanged as there are equally good jugs directly above and below the where the block was (as already point out). Apr 25, 2016
Steve Marshall
Concord NH
Steve Marshall   Concord NH
thanks tyler, i actually came here to ask about the status of that block. route looked wet 2 weekends ago... how was it today? Apr 25, 2016
Tyler Rohr 2
Cambridge, MA
 
Tyler Rohr 2   Cambridge, MA
 
No problem Steve. And credit goes my friends Mike and Alden who did the dirty work.

We were on it both Saturday and Sunday and it was completely dry and climbing wonderfully! Apr 26, 2016
Ryan Loiselle
Pepperell, MA
 
Ryan Loiselle   Pepperell, MA
 
Dom - I was on this route over the past weekend and it seems to me that the big jug you were asking about is still there. I had similar thoughts to you, when I reached it. Seems like it must be pretty solid to last the past ~5 years though. I hope it stays because that provides for a nice little rest! Aug 30, 2017
Andy Elliott
Hampton NH
Andy Elliott   Hampton NH
I have a petzl spirit/bd long draw combo on the last bolt. I put it there and it started pouring rain so we left.. please leave it there it is my lucky draw! :) Jun 5, 2018
Tim Young
Pennsylvania
  5.12b
Tim Young   Pennsylvania
  5.12b
That draw came in handy Andy! I clipped it on my redpoint, but still climbed to the top jug for full value. Left it up there for ya.

Also, the giant jug just before pulling onto face "clunked" a little bit on my beta burn, but felt fine on my next go. Dom and Ryan, is that the one in question? Jun 11, 2018
Ryan Loiselle
Pepperell, MA
 
Ryan Loiselle   Pepperell, MA
 
Tim - Yes, I was on it again this past weekend and felt it "clunk". Scary to think that if it broke off it would be almost directly above the person belaying too. That is a nice jug and it is easy to have all your weight on it when you want to swing that left heel-hook, before pulling onto the face.

Andy - Thanks for leaving that draw up there. It helped me clip the anchors and attempt those last moves! Jun 12, 2018