Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Lee Hansche 3/8/2019
Page Views: 128 total · 40/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Mar 14, 2019
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

A short but sweet hidden in plain sight pitch. Steep, sequential, and core intensive, with a definite crux right at the last bolt. If you have ever done Electric Socks you have lowered down this one.

From the anchor at the midway ledge, walk to the right and lean/stem out to clip the first bolt in the steep face (if you are short it might be a high clip. I left a stick clip on the ledge for you ;) It had to be a little high to keep you off the ledge if you fell low on the route). The climbing starts relativly more mellow on edges and a cool undercling fingerlock. Past good holds and easier clips to the crux getting from the 3rd bolt past the 4th. Body tension, crimp strength and a well planned sequence will get you through as you climb left and eventually gain the left arete, mantel and move easily to the anchor.

You will need to avoid climbing up when folks are lowering off of Electric Socks but Electric isnt a super busy climb and I dont expect this one to be either but it is quite worth while. Another option logistically is to just top rope this one after doing Electric to avoid multipitch logistics. Your call, HAVE FUN!

Location

On the left side of Hinterlands, up hill and left of Jolt there are 2 old trad routes (Barbed WIre Corner and Who Done It?) that rarely get done and a new sport climb (Live a Muerte) running between them. Above these routes is a midway ledge that is quite comfy. This route starts from that ledge and climbs directly up the wall above it. The best way to get there is to climb Live a Muerte and continue past its anchor and up to an anchor hanging above the left end of the ledge. From here move right and look for the stainless steel glue-ins. 

Protection

4 bolts to pigtail/ram horn anchors.

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