Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Lee Hansche 11/8/16
Page Views: 777 total · 30/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Nov 9, 2016
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

To the left of Jolt is a big orange face that is capped by an 8 foot roof. It is just stunning when the late evening sun hits it.

This route climbs up some easy scrambling terrain for about 40 feet where the real climbing begins. From here the difficulty increases as you progress. Some Interesting problem solving on a thin face felt about 5.9 to me. A solid rest in a horizontal break gets you ready for game time, layback up the Beautiful right leaning fin which gets harder as you go. A thank god jug gives you a break before Clipping the roof bolts. Climb the right edge of the roof and hand-traverse left across the front and up to clip the chains to an amazing view.

IMPORTANT NOTE: The first 40 ft of climbing is very easy but has relatively poor rock quality. I spent many days working to remove hazardous rocks but please take care to tread lightly on this section so to avoid finding something I could have missed and inadvertently bombing someone below with it.

Location

The route starts 25 feet right of Electric socks. But the meat of the climb is just left of Jolt.

Protection

12 bolts to pigtail anchor.

Photos

S. Neoh  
Wow, hiding in plain sight all this time. Thanks Lee. Nov 9, 2016
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.11b
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.11b
My pleasure!
Honestly the quality of this one really surprised me. Once the thing cleans up I see no reason why it wont be considered pretty classic. Nov 10, 2016
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.11b
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.11b
I spoke to someone who said they have seen people try to avoid the roof by topping out the slab and gaining the anchors from there. This sounds super sketchy to me. Please don't get hurt out there.
On a related note the roof does not require a big reach. With the right sequence it is reasonable and quite elegant. I try not to spray beta but I'm happy to share if folks are interested. Oct 22, 2017
Torie Kidd
NH
  5.11a/b
Torie Kidd   NH
  5.11a/b
At 5'3", I can say it isn't overly reachy with the right beta. Nov 5, 2017