Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Hinterlands

Ale 8 S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Back Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Barbed Wire Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Black Slabbath S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chicken Head S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chicken Parts S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cold Feet S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cold Shoulder S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dolt S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Electric Socks S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Free Range Chicken T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Giant Man S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hinterland Highway S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hole in the Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hot Head S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jolt S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Killers Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Know Moxie T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Last Kid Picked S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little People, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mean Lean, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Moxie T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C0
Nicky's Crack S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rise Against S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tang S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Who Done It? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: Brady Libby 2006
Page Views: 932 total, 13/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Jan 18, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route may have received only a few ascents, since it is hidden away, but is on a very cool feature, a thin curving flake forming a shallow corner that runs right up along the edge of an overhang. It is high above and a little to the right of the Who Done It crack and is approached by first doing Electric Socks and then rapping off towards the right to find a two bolt anchor at its base. Jam and undercling your way out the exposed overhanging flake.

Location

High and right of the finish of Electric Socks. Note - The description was correct, but the route was misplaced a few hundred feet in the latest guidebook drawing.
Get down with two raps off the bolted anchors, being especially careful not to knock stuff down while crossing the choss down low or when pulling the rope. (the route itself is on excellent rock)

Protection

Bolts

Photos

- No Photos -
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Today I got the send on this thing. I figured out some really interesting effective beta but I still can't bring my self to call it anything less I than 12a. So, I've shamelessly upgraded it here, may Mr. Libby forgive me. And good for him for feeling it was 5.11d. It may have been easier when it was clean. It might get all 4 stars with a good scrubbing. Still the inconvenience of it makes it hard to call it classic. Either way, amazing powerful and interesting climbing Sep 30, 2016
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Just took my first attempt on it today... i learned many things i should share with others that might be interested in this awesome but obscure line...
-it felt hard in the grade for me but it requires lots of undercling strength and endurance and underclings are a weakness for me... the balance and core tension required are intense... the foot smears are smooth in many places and have a thin film of lichen... those smears are only inches above 80 feet of air as the roof creates exposure that makes jolt feel secure :)
-i brushed out some of the dirty holds and a foot hold broke of toward the end so its a bit cleaner now than it was...
-in an attempt to make it easy on my belayer i tried to do it in one long pitch... i started leading on gear to the right of Who Done It and though i made it to the anchor it was quite crappy climbing (loose dirty etc.) and pretty sketchy... once up there i felt like i wanted my belayer right there to communicate better and to reduce rope stretch in a fall... what i learned was to just do it the way it is described here and dont try to beat the system...
-it is a stellar peice of rock, i will be back for more but i will bring my "A game"... Aug 25, 2012