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Routes in The Hinterlands

Ale 8 S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Back Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Barbed Wire Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Black Slabbath S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chicken Head S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chicken Parts S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cold Feet S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cold Shoulder S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dolt S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Electric Socks S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Free Range Chicken T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Giant Man S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hinterland Highway S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hole in the Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hot Head S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jolt S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Killers Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Know Moxie T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Last Kid Picked S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little People, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mean Lean, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Moxie T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C0
Nicky's Crack S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rise Against S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tang S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Who Done It? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Ed Esmond
Page Views: 1,819 total · 14/month
Shared By: Dom on Mar 30, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


34 Opinions

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Description

This climb starts on the arĂȘte of a huge boulder for 3 bolts than transfers to the cliff for the remaining bolts. I found the route had 3 distinctive crux. From layback to a slab mantel this route is sure to give you food for thought.

Location

It's just left of the route Tang on the right side of the crag.

Protection

11 bolts if I remember well

Photos

Franz Buzawa
Brooklyn, NY
Franz Buzawa   Brooklyn, NY
2 stars is about right. With lots of exposure and serious fall potential through the upper section (after you move off of the initial arete), this one's not for the faint of heart or for the novice 10a leader.

I'd also like to see the anchors moved from the present location--which is incredibly awkward to get to and doesn't add significant value to the climb to the face just below. That ledge would provide a good, safe position to clip the anchors from and rope drag would be about the same if the new anchor was placed high enough. Aug 14, 2010
M Sprague
New England
  5.10a
M Sprague   New England  
  5.10a
FA was Ed Esmond.

I thought this was a good route. It is slightly heady feeling though, so doesn't get done as often as others nearby. I don't remember anything particularly odd with the anchor placement. Watch the end of your rope when lowering. More than one person has been dropped through inattention even with a 60 meter rope and the landing is not good. Oct 7, 2010
Annaconda
Seattle, WA
Annaconda   Seattle, WA
Well worth it if you're solid at the grade. Great position and fun moves on the upper section. I thought the thrutch to the anchors was in keeping with the rest of the climb ... makes you earn it! Sep 24, 2012
M Bageant
Cambridge, MA
M Bageant   Cambridge, MA
I thought this route wasn't physically more difficult than 5.10a but was certainly a psychological thriller. I actually quite enjoyed it, the route is varied and interesting and deserves more traffic.

Lots of ledge fall potential; the bolts are placed as best as they can be to keep you off the ledges, but once you're up high, rope stretch is enough to drop you. Be confident in the grade or have a good belayer. A bit spicy in places as well.

BETA SPOILERS:
I had a hard time finding the route and the bolts, so here is some advice in the hopes that it will encourage more folks to get on this one.

Once you are at the top of the arete, don't climb too high into the roof; the bolts are too far right for a reason...

Once you are about to start the part with the roof, you won't be able to see the next two bolts...but have faith, they are there! They are approximately in the centerline of the bulge, hidden behind/on top of knobby holds. Look for bolts with hangers.

However, the route does not go straight up the bulge---it would go at probably 5.11-! Traverse all the way left under the roof and go into the blind dihedral to the left of the roof. Look to your right as your near the top of the dihedral for your next hard-to-find bolt.

Next do the scary mantle. The field of moss straight above the bolt is a field of moss for a reason; look for small hidden holds in the moss-free area to the right.

Finally, move back to the bolt and climb straight up the column/buttress of rock the bolt is in; don't try to go up the corner to the right of the bolt straight to the anchor!
END SPOILERS

A cool route and worth doing if you're in the area, but not a good lead for someone trying to break into 5.10. Sep 21, 2015
Ye Fu
 
Ye Fu  
 
I would only recommend to do this route if you are a good 5.11 leader, and are confident not to take a fall on it.

We attempted this route after we finished Jolt. It's actually OK before the bulge. There are some awkward moves along cracks between the 5th and 6th clips, the bolts are a little bit far away on the face. Very likely you will hit the ledge if you took a lead fall here.

Things get a little bit tough at the 7th clip on the bulge. There are some crimps above the bulge, but no good holds if you go straight up. And it is quite wet under the bulge. Took a lead fall here and got some scratches on my hand and forearm, not serious though.

We figured the right way is to traverse left under to climb up along the dihedral. My partner successfully climbed up, but took a lead fall in the dihedral, swung back and slammed onto the wall on the rightside. It's brutal. He got some twists of the ankle and blood on the knee. We ended up leaving a quickdraw on it and bailed.

Definitely thrilling, and would be an exciting experience had we not taken the falls. Jun 6, 2016
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10c
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10c
It's another inobvious, quirky Ed Esmond route, so don't be fooled by the rating (5.10a). The crux is going over the roof, and it's hard. Aug 18, 2016
Dan Knisell
Townsend, MA
  5.10
Dan Knisell   Townsend, MA
  5.10
Super great view from the top. The bolt before the anchor is camouflaged well. Don't miss it! May 27, 2018
S. Neoh
  5.10b/c
S. Neoh  
  5.10b/c
Eric L recommended this route to us today and I am glad he did (alto I was swearing at him at spots). You have to earn a clean lead on this one. Nothing less than what I expect from EdE. I have to say it is, along with M Falcon, the most varied 5.10 I have climbed at Rumney (and I have done most of them). This route has everything; face, slab, overhang, spook, tech, and a healthy dose of sandbag at .10a.
The upper overhang leading to the spooky mantel slab (I am not ashamed to say I beach whaled it on onsight) seems to be skipped these days. No chalk and quite a lot of lichen. I think leaders are drawn right to the Tang anchor five feet to the right of the overhanging section. If you can, don't skip out on the last four bolts of climbing, it is exciting, challenging and memorable.
To echo some of the comments below, I will be slective to whom I would recommend this climb. It is not for everyone. And as Eric puts it "come with experience or learn it on the climb". Spot on! Aug 25, 2018
M Sprague
New England
  5.10a
M Sprague   New England  
  5.10a
Soon, those anchors, if they were around the corner in an alcove and with a green rope hanging off, are for my new route "Black Ice Cooler" 5.7 or 8 (lead but not all cleaned), about 30' above those for Tang. Hopefully they won't pull too many from trying the top as it is the best part, a bit heady, but not physically too bad with careful route finding. M Bageant gave good beta; going too direct can bump the grade up to hard 10 or 11 easily, so be a little bold going into the blind dihedral (good holds coming), and move right for the mantle.
Close to 3 stars for me for the thoughtful moves and whoa factor. Aug 28, 2018
S. Neoh
  5.10b/c
S. Neoh  
  5.10b/c
All you wrote is correct, Mark. Sorry, I thought those were the anchors for Tang. And, yes I can see parties getting sucked over there. I too had a decision to make at the bulge, straight up or left into the unknown dihedral. A fall after committing to the dihedral (yes there is one crucial great hold one cannot see ahead of time) would not have been pretty. Next time I will try straight up at the bulge now that I know it is not too hard. Falls from there would be cleaner. The rest of the climb above the bulge is thoughtful but kind of dirty. The lichen knocks a star off for me. More spook than hard is a good way to describe this section and the climb in general. Well worth an outing but not for everyone Aug 29, 2018

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