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Routes in The Hinterlands

Ale 8 S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Back Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Barbed Wire Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Black Slabbath S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chicken Head S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chicken Parts S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cold Feet S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cold Shoulder S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dolt S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Electric Socks S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Free Range Chicken T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Giant Man S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hinterland Highway S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hole in the Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hot Head S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jolt S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Killers Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Know Moxie T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Last Kid Picked S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little People, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mean Lean, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Moxie T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C0
Nicky's Crack S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rise Against S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tang S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Who Done It? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Mark Sprague 8/99
Page Views: 2,929 total, 23/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Aug 3, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

A cool easy climb... Great for beginners and warm-ups for the moderately tough and those who don't mind enjoying climbing at a low grade...

To the right of jolt and dolt you will see the steep cracked face of Nicky's Crack (5.11d)... The next bolt line right is Hinterland Highway... The crux is low down on the face leading to the cruiser arete to the chains that are shared with Nikki's Crack...

Location

Just right of niki's crack...

Protection

7 bolts to chains. Stick clipping the first bolt is a good idea.
S. Neoh
5.7
S. Neoh  
5.7
Very enjoyable climb. Some interesting moves along the way. I even did a hand/fist jam around mid way. Crux is possibly before 1st bolt (and I did not stick clip). Solid 2.5 stars. Aug 16, 2015
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
That's it, Kevin - stick clip. Using a stick clip for tough starts saves the bolter having to place very close bolts at the beginning of the route and is safer. I don't remember the first bolt on this route being particularly high (think if it was a boulder problem up to it), but the technical crux of the route is below it. Very close low bolts here would be unsightly, require clipping right in the middle of thin, insecure moves, cause more rope drag, and a fall onto a very low bolt would be harder since there would be very little rope to absorb the impact. That is why many routes are bolted with the expectation the leader will use a stick. Mar 22, 2012
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
I hear you Lee, duly noted! In hindsight, it's probably very tough for developers in Rumney to find a balance between under/over bolting. That's why I don't develop routes, all walls would be bolted in a 3' grid. haha Still learning the whole sport thing. Had a blast on the other climbs fwiw. Mar 21, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
lots of people bring stick clips or learn to use an actual stick to make the first clip... the latter is a trick all sport climbers should know, it gets you out of a lot of sticky situations... Mar 20, 2012
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
The start of this is very commiting. Very scary actually, even for someone like myself who trad climbs on crappy rock at the Gunks. Next time I'm bringing a squido. No climb is worth decking for. If shitting your pants while hanging on the side of a rock wall is your idea of climbing then hop on this one. Heck, don't even use rope. lol It's a shame, the rest of the route looked promising from the ground. Is there really a reason so many of the cruxy starts at Rumney aren't bolted a little 'friendlier'? Aren't the reason for the bolts for safety? Mar 20, 2012
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
I had intended on putting a second pitch on this thing, up and left, but a piano sized rock needs to be dropped and a bunch of other heavy cleaning. Maybe someday.. Dec 3, 2011
NicoleKurth
Londonderry, NH
NicoleKurth   Londonderry, NH
hm. i guess we will never know... thank you though!

and btw i spell it Nikki. Jun 17, 2008
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
I don't know. There was a very cute girl there with her dad at the time of the FA. The name is a somewhat crude homage to the fact that all the guys there fell in love with her at first sight. I didn't get her to spell her name for me. Jun 16, 2008
NicoleKurth
Londonderry, NH
NicoleKurth   Londonderry, NH
is it Niki's Crack or Nikki's Crack? Jun 16, 2008