Type: Sport
FA: Mark Sprague 8/99
Page Views: 3,689 total · 26/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Mar 15, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Don't be fooled by the name...it's not a crack climb. "Nikki's Crimps" might be more appropriate. A great technical climb which can stymie confident 5.12 climbers from time to time.

The route starts up more moderate moves in a corner gaining a good rest followed by stout face climbing following the thin cracks in the headwall. Very technical.

Location

To the right of Jolt and Dolt there is a smooth face about 40 feet up, split by a few very thin cracks. Follow bolts below up a corner to the face.

Protection

7 bolts to the same quick clips as Hinterland Highway (5.6).

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[[105931536]] heads straight up the middle of this photo. It wanders slightly side to side, but when it matters.. the chalk stains will make it pretty obvious.
Nicky's Crack heads straight up the middle of t…
 0

10 Comments

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BTodd
 
BTodd  
 
although you can just top rope it (using the 5.6 next to it), I thought it was a nice 11 to lead if you are starting to get into leading 11's... especially since if you can't make it and your partner can't get up it either, you can always lead the 5.6 and get your gear etc. I agree that it is more small crimps and footwork than a crack. May 26, 2008
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
I think the name should be spelled Nicky's Crack, as in Nicky Dyal. I'm not absolutely sure, but I think she was the girl at the crag with her dad at the time of the FA. She made a bit of an impression on us all. We were having a conversation about elves and wood nymphs and along she came, looking exactly like one Aug 27, 2008
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
It's been changed. Why were you talking about elves and stuff in the first place Mark? Aug 28, 2008
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Lol, I think we were seeing them up there quite often, before the masses of people came and scared them off. Aug 29, 2008
burlap submariner
burlap submariner  
Thats wild Ive climb this a bunch of times and i didnt know it was named after nicky....she is rather elfkin like. Feb 19, 2010
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
  5.11d
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
  5.11d
It's funny what a year of experience can do for you; got on this today and it was super cruiser. :) Moves that were burly for me all went down with ease after using better technique. Crux of the climb is using the right holds in the sea of chalk and tick marks. Nice climb. Apr 11, 2010
GarrettM
bedford, nh
GarrettM   bedford, nh
super tricky. insain feet, reachy, awesome. I will be back to conqure it May 17, 2010
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
I think this was my most painful bare foot ascent ever. Ouch! It was perversely fun though. May 17, 2010
S. Neoh
S. Neoh  
I cannot imagine climbing this thing barefoot. I stood on some really small footholds to make some of the moves. No send today, quite a Beta intensive climb. Really quite good. Aug 19, 2012
S. Neoh
S. Neoh  
Unless you are perverted like Mark, bring your most techie shoes and best footwork for this one. They will come in handy for the 1 or 2 moves that make the grade. Nov 24, 2013