Type: Trad, Aid, 50 ft
FA: Bradley White, Ryan Barber, 4/2012
Page Views: 326 total · 4/month
Shared By: bradley white on May 25, 2012
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

At the start to 'Killer's Crack' climb past three bolts on face left of crack ('Killer's Crack' start can be done with these bolts). It goes at (5.9+,A0) and it'll free at 11 or 12 friction.
We switched leads after I put in the bolts. Ryan proceeded up past the bolts to the foot ledge and traversed left to 'Back Crack' foot ledge. Left of here there is a rock bulge with a crack above it. Gear was place high left to protect going down left around the bulge and up the other side of it to good hand hold cracks for twenty ft.(5.4-5) left. At the traverse ending there is at a pocket, below the inclining corner wall above. Go up through the pocket and inclining corner wall passing a bolt and a pin crux (5.9+/10). Chain anchors or do Moxie's finish, that has an excellent sky-hook ledge move right of the pin. After the hook placement there is stopper gear, then reach for a large sloping dead tree to hold onto to get off the wall. 4th class up to belay tree. The sky-hook ledge is knife blade sharp. This top off could have a little cleaning first, before free climbing below the dead tree.
I didn't do the hook finish. I did the wild long pendulum swing right. That sliced the rope's sheath. Route is set up now to avoid this kind of mishap. The route zigzags and it'll always take some thinking to avoid rope drag or do a two rope belay.

Location

left of 'Killer's Crack' or start at 'Back Crack' skipping the bolt start.

Protection

Stoppers, small/medium tri-cams and aliens or small friends, four bolts and a pin.

Photos