Type: Sport
FA: Mark Sprague 6/00
Page Views: 4,765 total · 29/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Mar 15, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This one can be a little scary if you aren't used to the techniques and exposure involved, but it is a favorite of mine thanks to the awkwardness of the chimney crux and exposed nature of the top...

Start up the chimney on unusually sharp rock. The rock gets less sharp as you climb...The crux of the route is exiting the chimney section. Most of the good holds are on the left as you climb out of the chimney, but they are hard to get to.... After the chimney, the angle eases off and you follow a ridge with great exposure to one more short steep section with nothing underneath you but air. Keep your head on straight and you will be clipping the chains in no time....

Note - There is often a large ravens nest near the anchor. Please avoid during nesting season  if they are there. Ravens have a long memory of individuals who bother them

Location

The far left route at the crag. From the low point where Jolt (5.10b) starts, follow a trail up and left. You will see an inviting crack (Who Done It? 5.9) to the left of the crack bolts lead up in to a chimney...that's your start....

Protection

11 bolts to quick clips. Use of a short draw at the top of the corner and careful watching where the rope goes as you pass it can eliminate a lot of rope drag.... 60m rope needed!!! Best cleaned by having someone second.

Photos