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Routes in The Hinterlands

Ale 8 S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Back Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Barbed Wire Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Black Slabbath S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chicken Head S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chicken Parts S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cold Feet S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cold Shoulder S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dolt S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Electric Socks S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Free Range Chicken T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Giant Man S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hinterland Highway S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hole in the Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hot Head S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jolt S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Killers Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Know Moxie T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Last Kid Picked S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little People, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mean Lean, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Moxie T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C0
Nicky's Crack S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rise Against S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tang S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Who Done It? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Ed Esmond
Page Views: 1,378 total, 11/month
Shared By: BrianWinslow on Aug 22, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


39 Opinions

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Description

Not my favorite route here. The slab climbing is good, the top out is good, but oh the crux sucks. It's not particularly hard, just very crunched up and awkward, at least for me and everyone else that I've seen, maybe you'll have a more enjoyable experience.

Climb up the bolt line to the left of Black Slabbath and to the right of the huge Dyke leading up to Giant Man. At the top of the slab you can clip the anchors and then lower off having ticked a great 5.9, or put an extended draw on the anchor and pull over the lip into the crunched up cave. Awkwardly make your way to the right. If you can think of it use an extended draw or two here as well as the rope drag gets pretty heavy beyond this point. After working out to a comfortable rest on the right, climb the cool ramp on the right to the crack in the face on the left. Hopefully you got the route clean so you won't have to do the crux again. I recommend lowering off to the first anchor and re-routing the rope if you plan to clean your gear on reppel or as you are lowered as the wear on the rope can be heavy and cleaning can be tough from the top anchors.

Also, be aware of other climber in the area, particularly on Black Slabbath as you will be climbing above them and potentially lowering off onto them.

Location

Starts to the right of Giant man and climbs up the slab (5.9) with an optional lower off, or continues to the right of the Giant Man Roof.

Protection

14 bolts to lower offs

Photos

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Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.11a
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.11a
Out of all the 5.10's at Rumney, the Hothead crux gets my vote for the hardest, most hideous, and most heinous. Really ugly. I hate it. Aug 18, 2016
Ladd

  5.10c
Ladd    
  5.10c
So Awkward. Oct 3, 2015
crimsonraen  
 
This climb should be done as a multi-pitch climb. If not, cleaning is absolutely awful, since after the anchors, you climb straight up, straight right, then up and right. That aside, this is a totally fun route! It has a lot of weird moves. (Although awkward, I didn't find the ceiling hard at all.. You can just muscle through it) Getting the anchor was a bit scary the first time around, though a breeze the second time once I got the sequence.

Again, do this climb as a multi-pitch! Jun 6, 2013
S. Neoh
5.10b/c
S. Neoh  
5.10b/c
I am rather small in size so this route was only a little awkward. The 5.9 slab is very good. I actually liked the route enough to give it 2.5 stars. Another great route by Ed.

My partner and I led this climb to the top in one go from the ground. With care, rope drag is reasonable but adds to the difficulty of the climb. I, however, cleaned the route on the way down in two; from the top anchors to the intermediate, pull the rope, then from the intermediate anchors to the ground. Aug 19, 2012
Mike Robinson
Worcester, MA
 
Mike Robinson   Worcester, MA
 
very good route well worth doing. I'd agree with Marks comment about the top. May 5, 2012
twellman
Cambridge
 
twellman   Cambridge
 
Some funky climbing, especially if you are tall. Also, if you don't use any extended draws, the rope drag is NASTY at the end. Definitely some cool moves in there though. Apr 17, 2010
Ian Wolfe
Fayetteville, NC
Ian Wolfe   Fayetteville, NC
The bolts right above the roof move can be easy to miss/skip. I blew right by them and ended up reaching backwards to clip the second one. This worked fine for me, but left my second with a big swing falling off the crux. If someone is TR'ing the route after you, make sure you get that clip!!! Sep 9, 2009
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Could have been named "the giant killer". Not bad if you are small. The slab is very nice and recommended. The mid section is not bad if you don't charge right into it and get your self balled up. Think your moves through and use slings to avoid rope drag. Certainly do the top for your tick, but for later repeats where you don't want to get so involved, maybe stop at the first anchor. Sep 18, 2007