Type: Sport
FA: Ed Esmond
Page Views: 2,588 total · 13/month
Shared By: BrianWinslow on Aug 22, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

Not my favorite route here. The slab climbing is good, the top out is good, but oh the crux sucks. It's not particularly hard, just very crunched up and awkward if you don't think your moves out, at least for me and everyone else that I've seen, maybe you'll have a more enjoyable experience.

Climb up the bolt line to the left of Black Slabbath and to the right of the huge dyke leading up to Giant Man. At the top of the slab you can clip the anchors and then lower off having ticked a great 5.9, or put an extended draw on the anchor and pull over the lip into the crunched up cave. Awkwardly make your way to the right. Make good use of extended draws or slings here otherwise the rope drag gets pretty heavy beyond this point. After working out to a comfortable rest on the right, climb the cool ramp on the right to the crack in the face on the left. Hopefully you got the route clean so you won't have to do the crux again. I recommend lowering off to the first anchor and re-routing the rope if you plan to clean your gear on rappel or as you are lowered as the wear on the rope can be heavy and cleaning can be tough from the top anchors.

Also, be aware of other climber in the area, particularly on Black Slabbath as you will be climbing above them and potentially lowering off onto them.

Location Suggest change

Starts to the right of Giant man and climbs up the slab (5.9) with an optional lower off, or continues to the right of the Giant Man Roof.

Protection Suggest change

14 bolts to lower offs


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