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Routes in New Vice Area

Alligator Allimony TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
B.F. Bugs S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blue Moon S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blue Steel S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Call of the Mild S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dealer's Choice S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Doctor Limit S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Doctor Rock S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Eel Pocket Route TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eggs and Darts and Shit S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Eyebolt Approach TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Frequent Flatulence S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Goofed On Skunk Weed T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jenna's Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Jenna's Face T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Living Postmortems S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
New Tomorrow S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
No Whippin Boys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pandemonium S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pleasant Summer Absence S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prairie Fire S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Syncopation T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Fat Chicks on a World Tour S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Two Tone Zephyr S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vertical Vice S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Way Knarly Dudes T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 490 total, 3/month
Shared By: Ian Harmon on Jun 7, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Probably the easiest route at Barn Bluff. Follow the left side of the chimney to the top, clipping the bolts along the way. A good beginner route or first lead. This corner is often a little on the buggy side, and there are often spider webs on the rock. This route could also be done as a trad climb if someone had large gear, although I've never done it.
  • RCM&W #94, p.134.

THIS CLIMB HAS SUFFERED SIGNIFICANT EROSIVE DAMAGE TO THE POINT THAT PARTS HAVE COLLAPSED. DO NOT CLIMB!

Location

One of the first routes encoutered in this area. The chimney is found in a corner about 10 yards around left of the large rusted eyebolts.

Protection

3 bolts to a two bolt anchor. This would also be leadable on large gear. Please use your own equipment for top roping.

Photos

BryanE
Minneapolis, MN
 
BryanE   Minneapolis, MN
 
Sent somebody up on their first lead on this a day or two before it collapsed. Glad nobody got hurt when the block came down! Mar 20, 2016
Alex Warren
Duluth, MN
  5.6
Alex Warren   Duluth, MN
  5.6
I can't believe someone would bolt a crack... it takes bomber gear. Jul 22, 2014
Joel Torgeson
  5.6
Joel Torgeson  
  5.6
Really nice to hit as a new leader, especially if some of your group hasn't been outdoor climbing before. Fun, easy climb, but as noted this one can be wet and muddy because of (I assume) the runoff from above. Jun 8, 2014
Christopherjohnson717
Madison
  5.5 PG13
Christopherjohnson717   Madison
  5.5 PG13
This route is almost always wet and muddy. For this reason foot placements can be unpredictable. Nov 22, 2013
Laura Stringer
St. Paul, MN
 
Laura Stringer   St. Paul, MN
 
This was a perfect route for a first lead climb and visit to Red Wing! Great foot and hand holds letting me get used to placing draws, clipping, and cleaning the route several times over-- but still a little technique to keep it fun and versatile. Oct 31, 2013
Landstrykar  
 
I liked this short, easy, unique route. Just don't wear your Sunday best, it's a little dusty back in there. I actually stopped midway and took my jacket off because I had just washed it, to the significant amusement of my climbing partner. Nov 9, 2010
great route for those who are looking for something easy or just havent climbed much before. matt wilde!!!! when did you start climbing? Sep 24, 2010
Matt Wilde
Minneapolis, MN
 
Matt Wilde   Minneapolis, MN
 
This was a good route for it being my first lead. I'm a chicken but felt fairly comfortable on this one due to all the good holds. Mosquitoes were relentless. A bountiful supply of bug spray is a must on this route. Aug 31, 2010