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Routes in New Vice Area

Alligator Allimony TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
B.F. Bugs S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blue Moon S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blue Steel S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Call of the Mild S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dealer's Choice S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Doctor Limit S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Doctor Rock S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Eel Pocket Route TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eggs and Darts and Shit S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Eyebolt Approach TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Frequent Flatulence S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Goofed On Skunk Weed T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jenna's Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Jenna's Face T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Living Postmortems S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
New Tomorrow S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
No Whippin Boys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pandemonium S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pleasant Summer Absence S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prairie Fire S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stormy Daniels S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Syncopation T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Fat Chicks on a World Tour S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Two Tone Zephyr S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vertical Vice S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Way Knarly Dudes T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,660 total · 17/month
Shared By: Chris treggE on May 22, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

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Description

Climb to a small ledge clipping the first two bolts in route. Make pinchy delicate moves to continue upward. After clipping the third bolt, the climbing eases up a bit and cruise to the top. The crux is finding the hidden ledge towards the top -- this will foil many an onsight suitor.

  • RCM&W #110, p. 135.

Location

Doctor Limit is immediately right of Two Tone Zephyr, and to the left of Frequent Flatulence.

Protection

4 or 5 bolts, to a two bolt anchor. Please use your own hardware for top roping whenever possible.

Photos

Adam Therneau
  5.11b/c
Adam Therneau  
  5.11b/c
This is probably the second best 11 at redwing, after chinese freedom. Good rock, technical climbing the whole way. Nov 15, 2006
Mike Frost  
 
Note that there is a climb with no bolt line between Two-tone Zephyr and Doctor Limit called Eel Pocket Route. It will be listed in the guides, but if you're counting bolt lines the route description here is correct. Eel Pocket Route can be top-roped from the Doctor Limit anchors. Jun 29, 2010
Dakota S.
Denver, CO
  5.11b/c
Dakota S.   Denver, CO
  5.11b/c
When I climbed it I felt like it was really clean. I understand now that the bottom is a little dirty, probably from the rain. I would still consider this route a classic for the area. Nov 12, 2015

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