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Routes in New Vice Area

Alligator Allimony TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
B.F. Bugs S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blue Moon S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blue Steel S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Call of the Mild S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dealer's Choice S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Doctor Limit S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Doctor Rock S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Eel Pocket Route TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eggs and Darts and Shit S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Eyebolt Approach TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Frequent Flatulence S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Goofed On Skunk Weed T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jenna's Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Jenna's Face T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Living Postmortems S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
New Tomorrow S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
No Whippin Boys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pandemonium S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pleasant Summer Absence S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prairie Fire S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Syncopation T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Fat Chicks on a World Tour S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Two Tone Zephyr S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vertical Vice S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Way Knarly Dudes T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Type: Trad, TR
FA: Nate Postma, 1991
Page Views: 219 total, 2/month
Shared By: Sean Foster on Jul 18, 2006 with updates
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Trad route to the left of B.F. Bugs. Varying width crack starts wide then tapers. Plenty of stemming, layback, and face holds to work with. Anchors added above roof/below tree in summer 2017 for easier lowering. Use your own gear at anchors if top roping. Crack gobbles up dirt and debris from above, but won't prevent you from reaching the top! As typical at Barn Bluff, more traffic would greatly improve the route.

Note that volunteers are doing this work, and it can take time and not always be perfect...

Thanks again!

Protection

standard rack

Photos

Installed a pair of shuts under the tree at the top of this route and cleaned some of the loose rock out of the crack system. This will never be an entirely clean route (par for the course at Barn Bluff), but it has been improved and you can now lower off without using the muddy tree at the top. Jul 10, 2017
BigMoveMike
prescott
  5.7
BigMoveMike   prescott
  5.7
thank you to the two unknown guys who took the better part of there day pulling those death blocks down and cleaning this route. this might actually be worth climbing now! Oct 10, 2010
Eric Swanson
Plymouth
Eric Swanson   Plymouth
The Coffee Table hanging death trap broke off yesterday, making for a really great route now. No real fear of death! Still no anchors that I could find though. Sep 27, 2010